Sea Breeze is friendly place

Sea Breeze

2409 N.W. Market St.

706-3170

Monday through Saturday, 5 p.m. until closing.

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

Step away from the hubbub and commotion of downtown Ballard into another world. Part Italian, part Hawaiian, part Rat Pack era Las Vegas, Sea Breeze restaurant is a warm and comfortable spot to sink down. We would say "cozy" but that implies small, or maybe we've just been reading too many real estate descriptions lately. Sea Breeze is cozy, too, but not cramped or small.

In the middle of a block of nondescript, one-story structures built as office buildings and light industrial spaces, Sea Breeze has created a unique niche. Although a relatively recent newcomer to Ballard, it feels like it could have been here in 1950. Unpretentious and friendly, the Breeze gives rise to the hope that not everything new in Ballard will be corporate and driven by condo-culture.

The big dining room surrounds a majestic combination fireplace/fountain fitting for a casino in mid-century Vegas. A long, dark bar runs along one side of the room, and sporting events flicker on the TV, with volume off so the wildly eclectic but thoroughly un-modern music can create its charm. Noise levels are moderate, and the music is at a level than can be heard, without making conversation difficult. We chatted easily through our meal, and found the setting relaxing.

Patrons sit in a corner with a date, have an early pasta dinner with kids, or join the sports fans at the bar for drinks and appetizers. The clientele represents almost every segment of Ballard, including old timers who look like they'd be home in the Smoke Shop, hipsters who wandered over from Ballard Avenue clubs, nautical-looking "live-aboards," and general tavern-burger refugees.

From the island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples, owners Aniello and Antonia Iodice offer up the food of their childhoods. Pasta, bruschetta, lamb and chicken, and panini sandwiches are filling and most reasonably priced. The kindly owners work the room, whether it's full or sparsely attended.

The Mediterranean feel of the place reminds us of Hawaii or other island culture, unusual for an "Italian" establishment. Part of this is due to the centerpiece fireplace/fountain, along with the intriguing mix of Greek, Croatian and Hawaiian music. The fireplace/fountain (which is mostly fireplace) could be a fire pit on the beach and offers inviting warmth in winter. It looks like the big front windows open wide in nice weather, too.

The generously portioned bruschetta ($6), with ripe chopped tomatoes with loads of garlic and fresh basil over garlic-rubbed grilled bread, stands up to higher-priced models of more trendy establishments. These are not the "small plates" of the current craze. Pollo Luna Rossa ($15) features thinly sliced chicken breast saut/ed in Marsala with lemon, wild mushrooms, capers and kalamata olives. Like a dish at a family Sunday dinner, it tastes homemade.

The Lamb Al Vino Rossa ($18), slow-braised in red wine with fresh mushrooms, comes with perfectly al dente asparagus and zucchini. There's enough for two meals with most entrees, and darned if it doesn't taste even better for lunch the next day. Another pleaser is the bountiful Primavera Salas ($9), with mixed greens, firm cannellini beans, kalamata olives, tuna, sharp red onion and tomatoes.

Created on premises, the house made Tiramisu and Cr