A 'warm feeling' at Georgia's

Georgia's Greek Restaurant and Deli

323 N.W. 85th St.

206.783.1228

Sunday through Thursday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Friday and Saturday 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

Greek restaurants often feel like family rooms. Georgia's has been a Ballard institution in their present location since 1991, and when you walk in the door, you're home. Over the years we've visited several times, and have never, not even for a teeny tiny second, found the service to be anything less than sincere, warm, and inclusive.

Reds and greens abound, with plastic vines and grapes strung around the ceiling, contrasting the live flowers on each table. Subdued lighting makes it easy to relax, and the knick-knacks, hanging Greek flag, and fabric window-covers dampen the noise, which can fill the small room. Quiet conversation can be a bit tricky, but it's easy to hear everyone else talking, and fun to listen to other people's inevitably interesting dinner conversation. For those who need to chat quietly in a somber atmosphere, we recommend doing so during your walk home after dinner.

Can there be a more satisfying way to start a meal on a sub-freezing night than with a steaming bowl of the lemon-kissed avgolemono soup ($5)? This elixir stands apart from all others in Seattle, marked by large pieces of savory chicken studding the creamy rice and egg broth. As an appetizer alternative or add-on, we've also been knocked out on previous visits by the saut/ed octopus ($8.95), tender as the night with an aromatic wine and garlic treatment.

Appetizer platters can be a nice way to tour the expansive menu. The Mezethes Plate ($13.50) showcases dolmathakia (grape leaves), keftethes (little baby meat patties with tomato sauce), tyropitakia (filo dough stuffed with feta), spanakopitakia (filo dough with other cheese), and is accompanied by a choice of dips. Our recommendation: do the hummus and tatziki, and go into seclusion the next day as the garlic effect works itself out.

Apparently sporting an unconscious craving for feta cheese, we also order the Mezethes Nistisima (we've always said that there is simply no Nistisima like a Mezethes Nistisima), featuring soft-roasted red peppers stuffed with, um, feta cheese. Cute little falafel discs populate small wooden skewers, separated by grilled onion wedges, cut small and shaped like a smile.

Perhaps the most unusual twist of the appetizer parade is the centerpiece of a large, very pickled pickle, surrounded by pieces of picked onion as well. It's as though the pickle has spawned the onions, and the sharp result provides nice counterpoint to the creamy and garlicky platter-mates.

May we pause here to talk a little more in depth about pita? The Kronos brand is really the only pita worth eating, and the pita here is thick, soft, served grilled and hot, and provides the most comforting backdrop for any of Georgia's dips, meats, or vegetables. Like its cousin injera from Ethiopia, pita can serve as a little sandwich maker, a food picker-upper, a sauce absorber, or even handle the "chip" role. But in the end, if it's not Kronos, it's not pita, and Georgia knows this all too well.

For the hearty eaters looking to entertain visiting Vikings or other old-world guests, the robust and bountiful souvlaki platters ($15.95) combine succulent flavors with massive portioning, delivering the goods in both the taste and volume categories. Fragrant with herbal goodness, the tender meat chunks adorn shiny and substantial metal skewers, which could come in handy as self-defense weapons should the need arise.

But of course the need will never arise at Georgia's where peaceful and kind ambiance rules the roost. We've not partaken of the music on Fridays and Saturdays, but with band names like "Orkestar R.T.W. with Gigi" and "Sub-Masa" (also with Gigi the belly dancer), it's hard to imagine going wrong. Music goes from 7-11 ("or until the dancing stops") on weekends. Breakfast is available daily until 3 p.m., and while we've never seen belly dancing at breakfast, we would not oppose such a move should management feel the need.

Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson have spent years visiting restaurants and writing reviews. They can be reached via bnteditor@robinsonnews.com