Special to the Times/News

The calendar says it's officially autumn, so it's time to pick up some of the gardening chores left behind from summer's heat.

Now is the time to renovate the lawn - if you really have to have one. Select grass seed that fits the location - sun, shade or a combination thereof.

Remember to keep the seed bed moist. Grass seed needs light to germinate so don't cover more than 1/2 inch.

Fall drought is common in Puget Sound, so keep the hose handy: recently transplanted evergreens will need to be watered regularly. To help them along, consider adding two inches of organic mulch to conserve soil moisture.

Because rhododendrons and azaleas are setting buds for next spring's bloom, be sure they get ample water, too.

Another important fall task is buying and planting spring bulbs - just like chocolate and raspberries, you can never have enough bulbs.

Take the opportunity to explore some of the less common bulbs, especially species tulips and ornamental alliums. They tend to require less care than over-hybridized showstoppers and are more dependably perennial.

Boldly go where you have not gone before and choose to plant bulbs in masses rather than single soldier lines. Because most bulbs have but one bloom each year, they look pretty lonely when set out in tidy lines along the walkway.

Instead, create grouping of 7 to 15 bulbs every few feet. If you have the space and the budget, plant great gobs of them.

Mix colors in complimentary or contrasting groups. One red, one pink, one yellow, one white is way less interesting than a great handful of dusky plum mixed with another handful of peachy coral pink.

Warm colors will say "Hello Spring" even more!

As fall progresses and trees begin to shed their leaves, the annual cycle of maintenance pruning begins.

Do wait until trees and shrubs have entered full dormancy and avoid pruning spring blooming specimens so as not to destroy next year's show.

Pruning Trees: Tips and Techniques

At first, pruning may seem intimidating, but it's not difficult. Like much of gardening, it combines a little art and a little science.

Once you're properly equipped with tools and the basic why's, where's, when's, and how's of pruning, you'll be more confident and more likely to be pleased with the results.

Why Prune?

To direct growth. With each pruning cut you stop growth continuing as it was and encourage it in another direction.

To remove undesirable growth. Suckers and water sprouts are common types of unruly or misdirected growth that you might want to remove.

To improve flower and fruit production. Pruning can encourage plants to produce better or more flowers or fruit.

To promote plant health. Plants are healthier when there is a minimum of dead, damaged, crossing, diseased, crowded, and pest-ridden branches.

To prevent or repair damage. Winds, snow, ice, and cold can all damage plants. If branches do break, prune to remove the broken parts.

To rejuvenate. Prune to reinvigorate an overgrown plant by cutting it back to a framework of limbs.

Techniques

Prune mature ornamental trees just enough to maintain their structure, health, and appearance. Don't prune just because you own a saw!

Deciduous trees. In general, it's best to prune trees just before the start of the growing season. The plant's stored sugars are still in the root system and will be available to fuel vigorous new growth. Plus, the branch structure is easiest to see while the tree is leafless.

However, wait to prune birch, dogwood, maple, and yellowwood in summer or early fall as they tend to bleed sap if pruned in early spring.

Prune a flowering tree according to when its flowers open. Prune trees that bloom in early spring after their blooms fade in late spring. In later winter or early spring, prune trees that bloom in late spring or summer.

Broad-leafed evergreen trees. Prune any season except during or right after the spring growth flush. Also refrain from cutting at a time that would make the tree more prone to disease or insect attack.

Conifers. Prune a conifer according to its branching habit. Some conifers' branches radiate out from the trunk in whorls; others grow randomly along the trunk. Whorl-branching conifers include pine, spruce, fir, and larch.

Pinch or prune them anywhere along the new growth before the shoots harden to induce branching. Don't cut into an older, brown stem as it won't sprout new growth.

Random-branching conifers include cypress, cedar, redwood, giant sequoia, dawn redwood, bald cypress, and hemlock. Prune these trees right before spring growth begins.

New growth will sprout from branches below pruning cuts, as long as the remaining branch has some foliage.

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