In Italian, the word "baffi" means mustache. The word "bistro" (from French) means a small restaurant. In combination, these two words mean one of the nicest things to happen to the dining choices in Burien in some time.

Bistro Baffi is an L-shaped restaurant located in Seahurst next to the old Kirk's Pharmacy just before Southwest 152nd Street pours downhill to Three Tree Point. It has the look and feel of a European bistro.

The restaurant has been there since last summer and has attracted a solid following among locals.

But it also brought with it a reliable pack of patrons who liked the food prepared by chef Michael Vujovich when he owned and operated The Beach House Italian Cafe on Alki in West Seattle until a couple of years ago.

Vujovich is one of those irrepressible human beings who you are drawn to immediately. A native of Montenegro, he is a tall man of perhaps 55 years of age. He has a handsome face decorated with a mustache (yes, a baffi) twisted on each end into a coil.

He seems remarkably fit for someone his age and attributes this to kitchen work and his participation in soccer.

When we popped in one recent Friday night, we could see him in the small kitchen across the front counter. He moves with a kind of urgent energy, stirring, flipping, tasting, plating and serving in a madball atmosphere that is very much under control.

Amber lighting fills the left and right sides of the "L." The front counter is where dark-haired Dinka Vujovich, who does not have a mustache, holds forth. She is simply perfect in her role as hostess; comely, charming and professional.

Behind her waiters boil from the kitchen with steamy plates of pasta, lobster and lamb chops, weaving through the tight space toward waiting guests.

Our waiter, Vojkan, a young man from Serbia, was polished, attentive and knowledgeable. He brought an appetizer of stuffed mushrooms we had ordered.

"Mike" suddenly appeared at our table to explain that the reason the appetizer took a few minutes to arrive is that everything from the kitchen is prepared when ordered and is not sitting around waiting. They were delicious.

We had a wonderful lasagna and a sausage rigatoni and found ourselves sharing bites. We saw other diners with lobster and a variety of pasta dishes.

We got there about 6:30 and left about 8. During that time, the place was effectively full and a few actually sat outside the front door on patio furniture under a heater to wait their turn to dine at Bistro Baffi.

There is a service bar and a nice selection of wines.

In the summer, the Vujovich's travel to Montenegro to operate another restaurant which they own there. Mike's youthful travels to Italy got him started preparing Italian food.

Before the Vujovich's decided to open Bistro Baffi after urging by former patrons of theirs in West Seattle, they did not know how many Italian restaurants there were already in Burien. They consider theirs unique.

Here is an insider tip: do not leave Bistro Baffi without ordering the tiramisu and flourless chocolate cake.