GreenGo Food
5402 20th Ave. N.W.
206-783-1402
http://greengofood.com/
Tues & Wed 11:00 - 7:00;
Thurs. & Fri. 11:00 - 9:00;
Sat. 11:00 - 7:00 (until May, then later)
Sun. 11:00 - 3:00, closed Monday

How can we not like a cute little non-chain establishment like this, where one can get a big ol' natural juicy burger, where the emphasis is on organic, local and sustainable foods, and where an advertising blitz means extra chalk writing on the sidewalk?

Indeed, GreenGo Food (a Japan- sounding business name if ever there was one) is all of things and more. And less. But mostly more.

Billing itself as "Fast food with a conscience in the heart of Ballard," GreenGo Food has been open since February in the spot most recently occupied by Patty Pan Grill, which has now moved their focus entirely to farmer's market fare.

At GreenGo, organic cheeseburgers ($8.5) rule the roost, along with a smallish menu dotted soup, a small salad, a few hot-non-sando items (like the cheesy Polenta Royale). But competing for top dog on the menu is something not even listed on the regular menu, which is the fried egg sandwich ($5).

This is truly a fried egg sandwich to believe in. Cooked to order, on tidy nature-style square slices of perfectly toasted bread, this baby sings. While we don't agree on egg yolk consistency (he likes his soft and to serve as a sauce to the bread, she likes hers firm and steady), diners can get it whichever way they prefer, and the finished product looks like something grandma would set down in front of the kids. While we were puzzled by these beauties being served on the world's smallest paper plates, the fried-egg sandwich encounter at GreenGo is gets about as meaningful as fried egg sandwich encounters can get.

Now back to the cheeseburger. Served on a grilled specialty bun, what this burger lacks in tradition (sans lettuce tomato and onion), it delivers in comfort and just plain squeezability. Recently back from a trip to France, we can't help but think about the different cheeseburger-eating rituals there. While cheeseburgers abound in Paris, we never once saw a diner use their hands to eat one, instead watching them work the Euro-style magic with upside down fork and knives, not putting down the cutlery during the entire meal. Here, we simply pick the whole thing up, and shove it right up in the old pie-hole, like we did at GreenGo.

Is one way better than another? Probably not, but the American style sure results in smellier face and hands (but that's why they make soap and water). We found the GreenGo version of the standby a winner. Our inquiry about tomato and lettuce won us no friends there, resulting in a short lecture about tomatoes not being in season, but what the heck, is a cheeseburger without lettuce, tomato and onion so wrong? It's never a bad time to challenge myths and beliefs, and the condiment pare-down allowed the achingly beautiful hand-formed patty to shine.

Owners Dylan and Heidi Stockman have long been interested in sustainable food and local agriculture. Their rich Web site features a fascinating blog, offering a behind-the-scenes view into what it's like to run a small establishment like this. The blog is a great way to connect to customers, and allows diners the chance to feel part of the action, including the opportunity to offer comments and suggestions. Some recent entries make it clear that GreenGo is having some growing pains, as they wonder whether to add more upscale sandwiches or stick with the simpler and lower-cost fare.

Their diverse restaurant, farmer's markets, and catering experience are obvious, and this is a most welcome addition to a great corner of gastronomy, with reigning Ballard Mexican champion Senor Moose just around the corner. The tiny space on a corner in Old Ballard is comfy, with counter seating and tables for outdoor seating when weather permits, and a covered bench in front. The homey chalk ads along the sidewalk add character and warmth. Eating at GreenGo is like eating at a friend's house.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com. The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food in full.