Waterwheel Lounge
7034 15th Ave. N.W., 784-5701
Daily 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.

Tucked away on 15th Avenue Northwest between a pho restaurant and a vacant fencing business, behind a parking lot, the Waterwheel Lounge sits frozen in time.

This no-nonsense tavern serves a steady clientele and welcomes newcomers, too. A funky little joint, it was recently made famous by its inclusion in the Top 10 in Mike Seely's guidebook, Seattle's Best Dive Bars.

The bar's been under new ownership for the last few years, but it's still the down-home place everyone loved. A new barbecue menu has also been added, but the Waterwheel's popular burgers and fried chicken dinners are not going away.

Served with massive bronzed chunks of poultry, the chicken dinners ($11.95) appear large enough to feed the entire clientele, although customers appear to have little difficulty polishing off the affair. Friendly-appearing ribs join the chicken on the entree list ($12.95).

The other side of the menu is ruled by pulled pork, brisket and sausage sandwiches ($8.95). Served with soft yielding buns, warm and homey baked beans, and perfectly acceptable coleslaw, the sandwiches offer value and volume.

We mix the coleslaw and beans together, and the combined sweet/crunchy/hot/cold synthesis is a winner. The smoker is right out front, with great smelling and aromatic smoke coming out, and the meat is tender and flavorful with the secret sauce.

Come here for a beer with regular people. They've got Mac 'n' Jacks on tap (many other beers are served by the bottle) and a full bar.

This is the home across the tracks we all left behind in our search for the big time. As the old country song says, "When the glamour starts to bore you, come on back where you belong."

The Waterwheel is off the beaten track for now (although Lunchbox Laboratory with their glorious specialty burgers is not far away). But this is a stretch of Ballard usually passed on by those who are only passing through, far from the tumultuous scene and unruly crowds down on Ballard Avenue.

Fifteenth Northwest, as much as we hate it sometimes, is still the backbone of Ballard. The busy road provides perfect cover for a nookish place like the Waterwheel to reside.

And what a refreshing change from the rest of Ballard it is. A plethora of special events take place at the Waterwheel: drink specials, poker nights, bingo, table tennis and Guitar Hero happen here, as well as karaoke on Saturday nights and breakfast on the weekends. We can't recall another bar with this many pursuits.

There's a good jukebox featuring hits of the 1990s, and a collection of interesting bells to ring for when you want to buy a round. Much is packed in to the little space, and furniture does double duty. Black vinyl bar seats swivel like captain's chairs in RVs, offering a seventies touch.

In addition to the comfortable bar seating, Viking-like stools offer a gargantuan and wide roost, providing a steady and stable base for working through beers and sandwiches. These tables become poker tables with the addition of a felt top on special nights, and the pool table converts quickly to a table tennis arena.

The folks in the Waterwheel are an eager lot, moving through the variety of goings-on politely and systematically, evoking the image of a nature show featuring footage from inside an anthill. Outside is a deck with more seating and a good view of the smoker.

The feeling is very much like a family, with most of the customers knowing each other and pitching in to set up the various activities. Patrons wander in, say hello, and hug the bartender. This is what a teenager's basement might have looked like in their wildest dreams, and no restrictions imposed by Mom and Dad.

The decor is eclectic, with plastic grape leaves, Mariners and Husky paraphernalia, beer signs, and old fashioned milk cans. Birthdays and other milestones are celebrated here, and every night is a party. We noticed that under the pool table are stored boxes of what appear to be holiday decorations. We're going back in December to check for swags of holly and mistletoe.

Pleasant and friendly bartenders are welcoming to all, even the non-regulars, and the service is prompt. Strong and decent drinks create sturdy accompaniment to whatever game might be on the TV. It's hard to imagine a more friendly place.

Legends of the old days at the Waterwheel may live on, but we decided to go ahead and build some news ones. Maybe we'll come back, pick up the microphone on karaoke night and live it up, Waterwheel-style.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.