Hi-Life
5425 Russell Ave. N.W.
206.784.7272
Breakfast/Lunch: daily, 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner: Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

It would be great for Ballard if the Hi-Life were a neighborhood joint with breakfast, lunch and dinner, seasonal specials and Northwest home cooking. If a waitress named Betty greeted regulars in a friendly fashion and asked about their dogs and children while refilling their cups of joe.

While it's not that, it is an interesting place to visit and imagine seeing firefighters dashing about.

The historic brick building, a former fire station, in Old Ballard that houses Hi-Life is a great draw and almost worth going to see for its own value.

Period architecture is blended with new touches to provide a spacious and open interior. Original art decorates the exposed brick walls.

The bar area provides seating that is somewhat cozy (as long as it's not too cold outside, then it's drafty).

The enormous wooden doors big enough to drive fire trucks through still adorn the front of the building and have been preserved artfully. History lovers will appreciate this look into Ballard's past.

Decent microbrew choices are found on Hi-Life's taps, including selections from the Snoqualmie, Maritime, Boundary Bay and Elysian breweries. Rainier is also offered in the longstanding Northwest lager tradition.

Specialty cocktails, a growing fad everywhere but especially in Ballard, have not been passed over by Hi-Life. The Elder Flower Kiss ($8.50), made with elderflower liqueur, Sauvignon Blanc, lemon and soda, is especially refreshing, and we appreciate the complex flavors.

The bar menu is robust and includes three pizza choices, green salads, macaroni and cheese, BBQ beef brisket sliders and onion rings served with Mama Lil's spiced aioli, in addition to imaginative small plates.

We chose steamed clams with chorizo ($10.50) with a side of roasted brussels sprouts ($5.75), the Firehouse Burger, chipotle-glazed with a fried egg ($13.50) and a side of spicy sautéed broccolini with red pepper and garlic ($5.75).

The satisfying burger was probably the star of the group. Served hot on a toasted bun and including a feisty roasted Anaheim pepper, it warmed the cockles of our mouths.

Juicy with a pink center, this nicely executed little rascal is reminiscent of the Hawaiian-style tradition of (almost inexplicably) adding an egg to a burger, but it works.

In contrast, the steamed clams, which we had to claim as a server wandered through the bar with our plate calling out, "Clams!" were not memorable. Mediocre with chorizo flavoring the liquid used for steaming, they brought little to the table.

The brussels sprouts, while nicely charred, were extra salty.

But, the broccolini surprised us with its strong presence, almost threatening at one point to take top honors away from the burger.

Overall, this member of the Chow Foods chain suffers from a lack of individuality and personality and an often inattentive staff. It might be necessary to help the staff locate which party the order really belongs to (we witnessed two food misdeliveries in one visit).

But, if you need a place to sit down and be served, having a nice cocktail in the process, the bar isn't bad.

In the dining room, there are more entrees to choose from (pasta, sandwiches, steak, chicken).

Hi-Life can accommodate larger groups and is also welcoming to children and babies.

Service can be slow, but if you are willing to stick up for yourself, claim your clams and stand up for what you believe, you may be OK.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.