Zayda Buddy's Pizza and Bar
5405 Leary Ave. N.W.
206.783.7777
Mon-Sun 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.

Developing fulfillment of a unique niche, Zayda Buddy's continues to mature in ways that we didn't expect after our first couple of visits.

Initially, we were struck by what we worried might be a somewhat thin and kitschy posturing, as they set themselves up as a purveyor of Midwest food that is more fun to think about than to eat. But, recent visits allowed us to understand the inaccuracy of this impression and to appreciate Zayda Buddy's as a true-blue contender.

Zayda Buddy's really compartmentalizes well, allowing at least three distinct groups to co-exist at the same time, each relatively un-impacted by the differing needs of the other.

For example, the room is open and light, but with the dark walls and brick skin, dudes can kick back in the bar, sprawled over bar stools like they own them, feet up on the next table's bar stools, and watch games on TVs big enough to see, but small enough to keep out the sport bar freaks.

And just inches away on the other side of a decorative divider, families with kids look like they're chilling at an old-school, family-style pizza parlor.

Group three sits down at a table closest to the kitchen, a group of guys eating, laughing and pretty much bridging the gap between the bar and food compartments.

And it's a warm feel! A super-friendly wait staff checks in frequently, gets the water and drinks moving ASAP, brings out the food hot, and are all gracious to the kids.

Maybe it's just our good fortune, or maybe it's because we really like kids, but on our last visit, the place was full of families with their small children, and there was little in the way of the usual mayhem that can accompany this kind of mixed crowd.

And even if it did heat up a notch, the noise coming from the bar moderately masks the occasional kid-shriek on our side.

Food and drink most definitely occupy the inexpensive side of the spectrum and are notable for their consistent presentation and execution. For example, let's take the mixed greens salad. Fine and crisp greens prop up some uniquely done roasted beets, accompanied by the slightly unusual blend of red onions, garbanzos and hot marinated peppers. The half order is plenty at $5, with the full boat running $9.99.

A turkey club was most serviceable, and we appreciated the skipping of that silly third bread that we always end up taking off anyway. Certainly a finely constructed club can't be expected to cause emotional outburst or anything, and this one did not, but we were alas very, very pleased with the freshly cooked, hot bacon, instead of the usual pre-cooked stuff that gets thrown on these all over town. For us, $8.99 for this baby is a steal.

The true wild card at our table was the Sloppy Joe WITH fried egg on top (you get a choice), and this also married funny concept with honest delivery. Thinking we'd try it out, have a chuckle ("Ha ha, wasn't that a knee-slapper, darned if they didn't put an egg right on that Sloppy Joe!"), and set most of it aside, we instead worked our way through the entire affair, moving quickly from the "ha ha" experience into the "this is GOOD!" realm.

Of course, we've never shied away from fried eggs on top of anything, and for some, this may not work. But for us it worked most nicely. Again, this came in well under $10, accompanied by fries – and as we all sadly know, a bountiful sandwich under ten bucks these days is a bargain.

We had to have the tater tots of course, and this was one decision we might revisit when we go again. Who doesn't like tater tots? But this item is really more for the kids or those who have never really been overexposed to tater tots as we were.

We skipped the pizza, but our eyes got big as we rubber-necked the attractive-looking pies at neighboring tables.

The ever-present Dark and Stormy reigned supreme as our table's cocktail choice of the evening, and again they were solidly crafted by a staff who knows their way around a booze collection.

The place has mega-choices of beers and whiskeys and can throw down a pre-prohibition cocktail with the best of 'em. A laudable array of imports, micros and standard domestic brews are complemented by the Midwest Leinenkugel line of beers, and while family-friendly, this place is not reticent in the least related to its booze.

Either Zayda Buddy's has matured or we have. But, wherever the truth lies on that spectrum, we're most impressed with the authentic and useful niche that Zayda Buddy's is carving out.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.