Enjoying an old favorite

Ray's Boathouse Caf/

6049 Seaview Ave. N.W.

782.0094

Happy Hour

4 p.m. - 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. - Close

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

The view at Ray's is unbeatable, and Happy Hour is a great way to take advantage without paying unreasonably high prices. From 4 to 6 p.m. every day, and from 10 p.m. to closing time, diners get to look at the same mountains, water, eagles, marine traffic and spinnakers that the people downstairs paying the big bucks are looking at.

Ray's takes their Happy Hour seriously. Orders are taken quickly, food is served fast, and like any Happy Hour worth its salt, due warning is given to bargain-minded patrons trying to maximize Happy Hour pricing. But when it's over, it's over. Laggards even five minutes late will be greeted with a firm but friendly "sorry."

Think of it as Ray's equivalent of Anthony's Sunset Dinners. If you think you're too young for a Sunset Dinner, come to Ray's Happy Hour instead. The ambiance is endearing, with fish made out of a variety of materials adorning the walls, and photos of a variety of fish-handling Ray's associates, including Jack Sikma, decorating the stairway. Exposed beams and HVAC work criss-crossing the ceiling make for a rustic, yet warm interior.

Now, the food. The Salmon Skewers ($7.95) may be the best thing on the menu. Generously portioned peach-hued smoked salmon on sticks adorn a bed of red cabbage slaw, studded with radishes and the freshest of sugar snap peas. Dressed with orange honey glaze, this dish was the star of the evening with the smoky flavor blending perfectly with the crisp vegetables. Manila clams ($5.95) steamed in beer and served with dill butter come all the way from Skookum Inlet to be your snack, and a tender snack they are. The Black Pepper Ahi Tuna ($5.95) is served rare as promised, with a beautiful, almost glowing and iridescent red blush.. The accompanying sesame cucumber slaw makes a crunchy foundation.

We wished we'd saved some of the bread to dip in the broth, because we only got one piece each and didn't feel like flagging the server down. Two green salads are offered on the happy hour menu, and we opted for the Upper Deck Greens ($3.95), a great deal for such an impressive array of candied walnuts, blue cheese, dried apricots and herb vinaigrette. Add bay shrimp or grilled chicken breast for $3-$4, and ask for the dressing on the side to avoid the slightly heavy-handed dressing application.

Also of note are the non-alcoholic "cocktails", such as the Pom-Palm Tree: Pomegranate, lemonade and iced tea ($3.50). The unusual snap of the pomegranate, with the caffeinated-edge of the tea, created some excitement at our table.

Never mind the dessert. Our Blueberry Crumble ($6) came radiating with high intensity heat -- the kind of dry and arid heat that can only be caused by a microwave run amuck-- emanating from its middle. Ray's does have a good wine-by-the-glass selection, including a cabernet/merlot blend made for them by Hogue, and they pour the wine generously. Cocktail prices are reduced cocktails during the happy hours, too.

The conversation around us seemed geared towards the interests of the well-heeled: high definition TV, golf and brandy. We could hear it all, thanks to the tables placed a little too close together. It would be nice to have a smidge more breathing room. Beware of large groups of women reconnecting in the bar, the only place where patrons can sit to take advantage of Happy Hour. Apr