Visit Puerto Rico without a plane

La Isla Seattle

2320 N.W. Market St.

789-0516

Monday - Saturday 11:30 a.m.-Midnight

Sunday 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.

(Kids' menu available)

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

While the deep red stucco walls of Market Street's La Isla make it a cozy winter hangout, outdoor seating doubles the size of this spirited little restaurant in summer. La Isla has one of the best customer e-mail lists around, informing regulars (or anyone who wants to be on the list) of specials, Domino Nights, and where the owner's band, Picoso, next will be performing their unique urban Latin/reggae/salsa music. Although we've never joined in the Domino Nights, everyone is welcome and we've certainly been curious.

In the space formerly known as "The Aussie Pie place", La Isla is the second incarnation of this Puerto Rican spot, previously named "Sofrito Rico." But the authentic flavors and the famous mojitos are still here. All staff members appear to be bilingual, but even if they aren't, they're all friendly and well informed about the food and happily answer any questions.

It's a deep urban experience to eat outside on Market Street near 24th Northwest - buses, trucks, and the increasing noise of Ballard are part of the atmosphere. But the view of Pacific Fisherman, Inc., and Magnolia beyond make it a special place. The tables aren't jammed together, and space between diners is appreciated, making conversation possible. The minty freshness of the mojitos helps create the feeling of escaping to a tropical island. Usually priced at $5.50 for a tall glass with lots of ice (we don't know what's wrong with people around town making mojitos in martini glasses), La Isla's mojito is an even better deal at $2 during Happy Hour (Monday through Saturday from 10 p.m. to midnight).

All of the sauces that accompany the food are handmade at La Isla and available for purchase to take home ($6). These include the thin, slightly red-tinted sauce made of water from boiled hot peppers, the Ajilimojili mayonnaise based garlic sauce with cilantro, the Mojito sauce with garlic and lemon, and the Isla de Fuego hot pepper sauce to spice things up, to name a few.

Sunday's special, Pernil, is slow-cooked, tender pulled pork shoulder roast ($12.99). Enticed by the mention of the dish in the weekly email, we've wanted to try it. Not only is it flavorful and evocative of Grandma's kitchen craft, the Pernil is plentiful enough to have for lunch the next day too. Served with rice, beans and cilantro, the dish remains firm and intact, avoiding mushy or overpowering spicing, with bites staying crisp and enjoyable. One of La Isla's trademarks is using spices as enhancement, rather than as empty recreation.

The light, crisp tostones (fried plantain disks) come with all the entrees, and are not for everyone. We've labored through these starchy and often dry offerings with a strong effort to reframe our ambivalence about this item, with little success. But a moist alternative is Madura, which can be substituted for an extra dollar. These sweet potato fries are more flavorful, richer, and carry a less bland texture than the tostones.

The always dependable Pez Gato ($12.99) delivers thin and fresh fingers of adobo-marinated and lightly fried catfish. These are light, mild, never greasy, and gracefully spiced, speckled with large flecks of fresh black pepper. The mild catfish flavor tastes just right for a summer night. The regular rice and red beans can be replaced by Arroz con Gandules (rice with pigeon peas) for $1 more, but we prefer the wholesome and plump red beans which comes with all the entrees.

Salmon Parrilla (grilled salmon with lemon, garlic and onions, $15.99) is another favorite, always served moist and flaky. This dish underscores La Isla's subtle and friendly use of herbs and spices, serving as the poster-child of the kitchen's commitment to flavor, spice, simplicity, and restraint.

Malta India ($1.75) is a non-alcoholic Caribbean drink made of barley and hops, and comes on like a load of bricks being dumped over the diner from five feet overhead. Served over ice, it is a refreshing, malty, carbonated and admittedly weird and non-cola alternative to soda pop. This challenging drink is most enjoyed when heavily chilled, and the odd combination of coldness and thickness evokes images of a coca-cola/weetabix milkshake. Numerous other non-alcoholic choices are offered as well, making La Isla inviting to non-imbibers.

We were too excited about the mojitos to explore La Isla's impressive rum list, but they pay close attention to rum here, offering an extensive list of both classic and imported rums. While it's possible to experience the vibe of Puerto Rico in Ballard via La Isla, the owners do advise making the trip to Puerto Rico to experience the real thing. And when you go, send us a postcard.

Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson are long time Ballard residents, and have been writing about politics, music, art and food since 1980. Their work has appeared in the Rocket Magazine, The Seattle Weekly, the Stranger, the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and the Ballard News Tribune. They can be reached via bnteditor@robinsonnews.com