Tex Mex comes to us

Austin Cantina

5809 24th Ave NW

Seattle, WA 98107

789-1277

Dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5:00 to 10:00 p.m.

(Friday and Saturday until Midnight).

Closed Monday.

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

Austin Cantina, the new addition to the greater 24th Ave corridor, is a contender. With a nod to the little engine that could, Austin Cantina is driven by a determined and energetic staff, and works hard to offer an enjoyable and affordable meal in a comfortable, friendly setting. Like all contenders, Austin Cantina combines strengths and weaknesses. In the end, we found this endearing and humanizing, and were drawn in by the sincerity of the earnest staff and hard-working on-site owner/chef.

That and the hottest, boldest chili in town ($4.50 for a cup). Texas-style chili eschews beans, and that can be challenging for diners used to the much thinner bean-style we usually get in these parts. At Austin Cantina, it's more like a thick paste, and is not for the timid. We often find spicy food purposeless and reflective of bored and desensitized cooks who've often melted off the taste buds of their tongue with years of chain smoking. But the aggressive wallop of the chili at Austin Cantina smacked of mission and intent. Two bites into this, and we knew a move from red-wine (the Rattlesnake Ridge Syrah was nicely priced at $6.50) to the hoppy and frosty Hales Cantina IPA ($3.50) would need to happen, and happen fast.

Austin Cantina is also brave enough to not salt the life out of its fare. We eat out frequently, and it's often only minutes into a meal that we start to get that unmistakable feeling only a massive salt infusion can bring. It was a pleasant surprise to find a place that lets the food, not butter and salt, do the talking. This was consistent throughout the meal, and as we worked our way through several items, we had to contain our glee as we noted to each other, "hey, this isn't too salty either!"

Calamari ($7.50) joined the chili as our appetizer, and it seemed more Greek than Tex. While slightly odd with its lack of crunch usually found in calamari, its saut/ed versus fried character brought to mind the fragrant treatment of octopus at many Greek restaurants. And again, as would be the pattern throughout the meal, the kitchen chose flavor and style over the easy crowd-pleasing tactics of the "fry it, butter it, salt it, and sell it" crowd.

When our entrees arrived, we oohed and ahed over the succulent and colorful Calabacito Stew vegetarian filling for the Tacos Especial ($11.50). This al dente mix of squash, tomato, corn and poblano chilies fills the warm corn tortillas nicely, and the radish and cilantro garnish made it sing. The purple and also slightly crunchy beans are sweet and maple-y, and underscore the fresh, home-cooking style. Beer braised and garlic spicy, the Texas Pot Roast is another taco choice we recommend.

Less dazzling but still solid is the Mexicali Chicken Fried Steak ($10.95). High quality, grass-fed beef is zestily battered and served with chipotle mashed potatoes. The thin slice is crisp, not greasy, which is unexpected but welcome in a chicken fried situation. The accompanying corn with lime butter drew a raised eyebrow of delight, with the balanced herb and citrus elements.

The inviting ambience of Austin Cantina leaves us feeling welcome, like we're in someone's home. The music is at a volume where it can be heard without distraction. Conversation is easy and the hodge-podge of alt-country-meets-ZZ Top mix prompted interest and discussion at our table.

Care is taken in the furnishings and service at Austin Cantina. Small cacti decorate each table, and padded benches make comfortable seating. Red velvet curtains hung on the walls to break up the sound further the coziness, and candles in wall sconces add to the warmth. Neighborhood regulars seem to appreciate the place.

There's not much of a view at Austin Cantina, but the picture windows showcase real-life drama playing out as the patrons of the bustling WingMasters Tavern next door come outside to smoke and hang out.

Austin Cantina has prompted quite a bit of action in the online blogosphere. Everyone has their own idea of what Tex-Mex food should be like, and that's been made clear online as more Seattleites discover Austin Cantina. Online chatter ranges from praising to harsh dismissal, with expectations often based on how grandma did it, where they used to live, or how they imagine it was like in their youth. Portion size complaints show up online in more than one discussion, reflecting the apparent belief in some quarters that Tex-Mex means being overfed. For our money, the flavorful and fresh dishes, ample but not ridiculous portions, fair and modest pricing, lightish salt and butter factors, and the warm and eager-to-please staff make Austin Cantina a welcome addition the Ballard's food family.

Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson have been reviewing restaurants around Seattle for years and they may be reached via bnteditor@robinsonnews.com