If you, like me, finally have time to plant your spring containers, do not be too hard on yourself. Now is an excellent time to plant containers for fall and winter interest, as both plants and containers are on sale at local nurseries and we've still got several weeks of fantastic weather to enjoy.

The Basics

Before planting, make sure you have containers that are frost-proof, or at least frost-resistant. Most terra cotta will survive our winters, but should be elevated on pot feet to keep the pottery from contact with freezing, wet surfaces.

Your fertilizing strategy for fall and winter containers is a little different than spring. Because the soil is warm and the air is cool, you want to ensure nutrients are released slowly and steadily throughout the cooler months. Consider using a bulb fertilizer rather than an all-purpose bedding plant fertilizer.

Finally, be sure and water when the soil is dry. The results will be spectacular displays through next spring!

Bulbs

A well-planned cool month container will be layered using winter- and spring-blooming bulbs such as crocus, daffodils, hyacinths and tulips. The key to using bulbs in containers is to ignore the spacing recommendations and place them adjacent to each other. Yes, it seems very wrong. Trust me!

Layering is very simple, especially if you're a fan of lasagna. Start with a good organic potting soil. If your containers get regular rain exposure, avoid using a potting soil that has a lot of water retentive qualities (moisture crystals, etc.). Bulbs don't like to sit in wet soil!

Next, place your daffodils and tulips approximately 8 to 10 inches from the rim of the pot. Add more potting soil on top, and then place small bulbs such as grape hyacinth approximately 6 inches from the top. Sprinkle an inch or two of potting soil on top of the small bulbs and finally, place your 4 inch annuals - your violas, ornamental grasses, cabbages and kales and such - on top. (You can use one gallon containers as well - just sprinkle your smaller bulbs around the edges.)

Backfill with potting soil and voila!

Cabbages and Kales

I used to positively despise the overuse of ornamental cabbages and kales in the Northwest garden. I used to swear that I would never - sniff! - have them in my garden. Once I realized the range of colors and textures available, I quickly overcame my haughty-cultural snobbery.

In shades or rose, pink, cream and white, and with leaves that curl, fringe or sit neatly, ornamental cabbages and kales have come a long way. Look for 'Nagoya' mixed kales and Japanese ornamental cabbages at local garden centers. As an added bonus, the foliage can be used for garnish during holiday meals, or, if you don't like what you've planted, cook it up. And remember; Foliage color is best with cold weather!

Pansies

As much as I love contemporary design, I believe that there is a place for pansies in everyone's garden. Members of the genus Viola, pansies will bloom through winter and into spring in a sunny location with a slow-release fertilizer. If they get leggy, chop them back, give them a gulp of fertilizer and they'll be right back.

Evergreen Ornamental Grasses

Ideal for foliage-oriented containers, look for the dramatic dwarf black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus 'Nigrescens'). Fairly expensive due to its slow growth habit and rare almost-black linear foliage, shop the sales and stock up! This perennial is extremely versatile, not to mention an excellent foil for chartreuse or gold. A good substitute for this trendy wonder is liriope. I like the white-blooming cultivar "Monroe White'.

Bronze sedge (Carex buchananii) also has many uses in the Northwest garden. Bronze and somewhat curly, this sedge is dramatic paired with dark, coarse foliage and mulched with tumbled black stone.

Evergreen Shrubs

If you're a fool for Christmas decorating, consider using a specimen holly (Ilex aquifolium and cultivars) in your containers. Female plants bear red, orange or yellow berries, and foliage can be variegated cream or yellow. Consider shaping hollies into topiary for containers flanking your entryway. Note that while this may seem overly formal, the look is quite at home in Craftsman, bungalow and even contemporary architecture.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalus) is another evergreen that can be pruned into topiary shapes, and you can enjoy the scent of freshly cut rosemary year-round. 'Arp' is reliably hardy in the Northwest, and 'Prostratus' is a low growing form ideal for the edges of containers. Be forewarned: Rosemary can get quite large, so use a large container! If you're tempted by the rosemary often found at home improvement centers, be sure that the container has a drainage hole. Nothing will keep rosemary faster than sitting in a wet pot.

If your container garden is in the shade, don't despair. Sweet box (Sarcococca spp.) is a slower growing evergreen with intoxicatingly fragrant white flowers in January and February (just when we need it the most). One sprig in the kitchen will scent your entire abode! It, too, can be clipped into orbs or pyramids for containers by the front door.