Head up to Admiral on a dark winter's night and you'll notice the new, entrancing blue glow of Blackbird Bistro. Officially opened on December 16th by proprietors Eric Cozens, Peter Morse, Executive Chef David Hilliard, and Rich and Amy Green, Blackbird is newest chic spot on the block offering fresh, organic, new American fare.

And if these names sound familiar, it's because Cozens, Morse and Hilliard also are the men behind Mission, next door. Cozens came up with the name when he saw a blackbird fly overhead on a trip to Phoenix, and the partners solidified their idea when they noticed other restaurateurs looking at the space (which was then Caf/ Zaffarano).

"We were searching for something very open and inviting but with an edge to it - we wanted it to compliment Mission," says Morse. "Compared to Mission, Blackbird is light and bright, has completely different food, and a completely different atmosphere."

Both Cozens and Morse live in the neighborhood. In fact, Cozens used to be a West Seattle Herald carrier.

"We want to bring up the level of offerings in the Admiral District and improve the neighborhood we live in," says Morse. "Like changing the art or furniture in your living room, you can improve where you live if you try. The Alaska Junction residents have their neighborhood options and we want Admiral to have more options as well. The Admiral Junction is really an up and coming area."

But in addition to timing and contributing to the constant evolution of West Seattle as an urban village, Blackbird also offers a fresh, thoughtful, cuisine-conscious menu and brilliantly blue-lit bar (complete with a full line of flavor-infused vodkas and organic wine) to back it all up.

Classified as new American cuisine, Blackbird features a new spin on classic comfort food with a Northwest and "American melting pot" fusion menu made with local, organic produce, natural-fed meats and poultry, and consciously-caught seafood.

What does this mean? Appetizers such as peppered Ahi and entrees like macaroni and cheese (oven-baked with Gruyere, parmesan and cheddar), pan-fried chicken (in a honey-chili glaze, served with sweet potato mashers and winter greens), and a trio of scallops (with roasted pumpkin and candied pecans, in an apple cider sage reduction). Blackbird also offers several vegetarian options such as two pasta entrees, vegetables encroute, and field roast substitute on any sandwich in the house. Another bonus is that the prices are low compared to similar fare in the city.

"It's rare to be able to enjoy socially-aware meals without spending a pretty penny, but we've stepped up the quality of food without boosting up price so it's affordable for families in the neighborhood," says Morse. "People can afford to come once or twice a week versus once a month."

They already are. In fact, some say it's just what the neighborhood's been waiting for.

"We live here, in fact we walked here tonight,"' says local bagel shop owner Nancy Geddes. "We're very excited because we've needed that neighborhoody place that is something to keep coming back to. A good restaurant listens to its customers and this is what we've been asking for."

Blackbird is also spreading its wings to welcome the rest of Seattle out of the woodwork, over the bridge, and into West Seattle.

"It's been very noticeable for me coming here (to West Seattle) year after year that it's just becoming more diverse. Not just the sheer amount of restaurants opening, but it seems like the quality of new places, like Blackbird, is continuing to improve as well," Cory Van de Ven of Mt. Baker.

"I don't get out to West Seattle hardly ever, but I know a lot of people who do and we're seeing a lot more gift boutiques and restaurants like this," says Tizzy Asher of Queen Anne. "It's sleek, but nice - a place where people in their late 20s and early 30s come to connect. People seem very network-oriented and social, especially in the bar."

And if they can pull it off, bringing patrons across the bridge to dine will meet the restaurant's goal. "We're not just trying to be a good restaurant for West Seattle, but a good restaurant for the Northwest," says Morse.

(Information Box)

What:

Blackbird Bistro

Where:

2329 California Ave SW

937.2875

www.blackbirdbistro.com

When:

Lunch 11a.m. -2 p.m.; dinner 5-10:30 p.m.; Bar 11 a.m.- midnight.

Blackbird will also feature weekend brunch from 8 a.m.-3 p.m. beginning in 2006.

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