Editor's note: This is the first of Stephen Lamphear's garden columns. Stephen writes for a number of the Ballard News Tribune's sister publications. He lives in Burien now but was smart enough to live in Crown Hill for about 15 years. His gardens have been featured in a number of publications including Better Homes and Gardens, and he's the founder of the Highline Botanical Garden Foundation, which develops community owned gardens. Stephen's column focuses on gardening along the near Puget Sound strip, which is unique as a microclimate.

Time for getting your garden and lawn in order is quickly running out. One of the good reasons for doing major work at this time, in addition to the adaptability of plants, is that water rates go up in May. New plants need to be watered in, so it's best to do it while the cost of water is as low as it will be.

The cost of water is another reason to muck out ornamental ponds at this time. Large ponds containing thousands of gallons can be expensive to refill. Do it now and save money. Plants are just starting to grow and fish are still lethargic from hibernation.

If ponds aren't emptied, they still need to be cleaned of rotting vegetation. Get in there with a rake and remove debris. Decomposition produces methane gas is produced which can kill fish and other pond critters.

Mosquitoes are have been laying eggs for some time. Inexpensive gold fish will eat the larvae and keep numbers down. Another natural control is to add Bt bacteria to the pond. Garden centers carry granular and cake forms of these bugs that enter the mosquito larvae digestive track and kills them from within. Very effective and not toxic to fish or pets.

The King County Natural Yard Care program offers valuable classes in how to manage your garden and lawn at the least cost with the lowest impact on the environment. On May 10th, the last session is Plants and Watering: What Works. Class will be held 7-9pm at the Seahurst Elementary School, SW 146th & 4th Ave. SW. While the program is free, please register by calling 206-838-0476.

The Euphorbia clan offers many cultivars for the easy-care garden. Most prefer dryer, well-drained soils in full sun. Hardy garden subjects are relatives of the Crown of Thorns houseplant found on many windowsills. Lacking thorns and generally blooming in shades of green and acid yellow, hardy varieties offer structure and texture early in the year. With only a few hundred good ones to choose from, go ahead and pick the ones that work for you.

Though most hardy Euphorbias are some shade of green, there are some with silver stripes, a couple with burgundy tones and two or more variegated forms. The form we see most often is a variety of E. charachis. The famed English plantswoman Rosemary Verey recommends this as a basic structural element because of its 3 to 5 foot stature and evergreen qualities. It's blue-green leaves and bold yellow flower heads glow in the late spring garden.

Tolerant of many difficult situations, there's a 'phorb for most gardens. Rich, dark green wood spurge (E amygdaloides var robbiae) makes a tight, spreading fifteen-inch mound even in the driest, deepest shade (other than a total desert or cave). In spring, yellow flower heads are held high above glossy leaves. Use it to dress up the ground around rhododendron ghettos and dry woodlands. The ground under western red cedars is generally a no-plant's land; so try interesting arrangements of rocks and boulders.

Sunnier parts of the garden will host the rich Merlot flavor of brown-burgundy E. dulcis 'Chameleon'. This easy grower tops many charts of top purple-leaved perennials. A 10 to 12 inch beauty, Chameleon can be cut back in early summer or right after flowering for another flush of sultry foliage. Found in a shady French ditch, this baby has truly gone from rags to riches!

The milky sap of all Euphorbias can cause contact dermatitis on some people. If that's you, use gloves. Even if you're not sensitive to the sap, take care not to rub your eyes.

Q: Everything I read says I should mulch my garden. I've used Cedar Grove compost once but was rewarded with weeds galore. What's the best mulch and how much should I use?

A: Mulch and compost are not always the same thing or used for the same purpose. Compost is primarily a soil amendment used to build structure, fertility and vitality of microorganisms. Mulch is a top dressing used primarily to increase water conservation, retain heat, discourage weeds, plus build soil.

Mulch is generally made from ground wood and usually a more bulky product than compost. Ground bark is common as mulch but it has some drawbacks like over-acidifying the soil and slow decomposition. In the Lazy Garden, FREE mulch in the form of tree trimmer chips is used throughout. The wood color mellows to a satisfying gray, and it decomposes fast enough to build soil - it becomes compost.

Two to three inches of mulch, tapered to an inch around plant crowns and stems, will help retain water and smother weeds. Worm action and decomposition will incorporate about an inch annual into the soil. So, renew every couple years.

Do you have questions for Stephen Lamphear? Contact him at lazy.gardener@comcast.net.