Dandelion should be on your list

Dandelion

5809 24th Ave. N.W.

706-8088

Tuesday-Thursday 5 p.m. - 9 p.m.

Friday-Saturday 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

Like a French bistro right here in Ballard, Dandelion stands spunky and hip on 24th Avenue Northwest.

The small rectangular space, disguised as a cozy hangout, is painted yellow for a warm feeling, with polished wood floors. Original oil paintings hang on the walls, and the subtle lighting and candles on each table help advance the snug d/cor. Linen tablecloths, proper silverware, and high quality plates enhance the experience. Individual salt cellars and little pepper mills grace each table. Although you'll be close to home when dining here, you can pretend you're far away, imagining a European experience.

Mussels steamed with tarragon and shallots in wine ($9.50) are the perfect starter. "Use the right tool for the right job" is a favorite saying in our house (in other words, don't use a clam shell to move BBQ coals around, and don't use a fork to spread peanut butter). At Dandelion, they have the right plates and dishes for every purpose. Usually we're not so easily impressed by plating, but Dandelion's thoughtful presentation of each menu item really grabbed our attention.

Tender, plump mussels are served in a shallow, ivory-colored plate that seemed custom-made for the succulent bivalves, allowing plenty of bread-dipping room to soak up the tangy sauce left behind. Like everything at Dandelion, the bread (served on just the right plate, of course) comes from a local supplier, a bakery just up the street (Tall Grass). And there is no problem with getting plenty of it brought to your table as soon as the need (unsopped broth, for example) arises.

The Grilled Natural Pork Chop ($20) is served with saut/ed chard, a smidgeon of maple glazed pears, and the best roasted red potatoes around - half circles of just-the-right doneness spiced and finished in the frying pan. These potatoes would be good for breakfast, lunch or dinner. In fact, portions are generous enough at Dandelion that leftovers usually happen.

Prices may at first seem a tad high for a little neighborhood spot like this, but with the high quality ingredients and generous portion sizes, it's quite reasonable. You could also make a meal of two appetizers, as they are generously portioned as well.

Orrechiette ("little ears") Pasta ($18) - grilled asparagus, roasted red peppers, and feta cheese tossed together - is fancy comfort food with an artistic flair. In fact, this pasta dish stands up as a representative of the Dandelion way. It's subtle, not showy, with good spicing, a modest price, and a uniquely presented style. The Fresh Strawberry Salad ($9) with spinach, goat cheese, and almonds is fine company for the pasta. While at first it seemed there was something a little too "Strawberry" about topping a strawberry salad with strawberry dressing, it still hollered "summer's here!" with great gusto.

Dandelion's size, the wood surfaces, and the open kitchen contribute to a slight cacophony, but it's a nice and welcoming chaos, like sitting in a friend's kitchen at a party. Sounds of foods sizzling on the grill, the clanging of kitchen tools, conversation of nearby patrons, and pulsing music blend to create the atmosphere. The volume can work its way up in the rectangular and hard-surfaced room, but upon entering, customers are greeted right away with a smile, furthering the welcoming feeling.

Our server was warm and friendly, and covered the room like a pro. The room is set up with tables lined up mostly in a long line, bistro style. The kitchen in ringed with a small counter at one end and a short little wall separating the kitchen from the dining area. The efficient set-up places the server right in the middle of the action, never leaving her far from any table, and allowing her to blanket the room in top-notch service without ever breaking a sweat.

Wines priced reasonably by the bottle and the glass round out the menu. Following the trend of high quality roses (not just for chugging any more), Dandelion offers the $7 Domaine de Fontsainte gris de gris '06, France. This wine is the quintessential summer wine, pairing well with pasta, fish, pork, and chicken. A trip to Dandelion should definitely be on your list of "Things to do This Summer," and promises to be a sunny and warm experience, no matter what the weather's doing outside.

Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson may be reached via bnteditor@robinsonnews.com