Ballard Avenue was the hub

By Susan Cook

The heart of every small city or town is its main street, where the businesses and services that cater to its citizens are concentrated. Ballard Avenue was this crucial commercial center for the young City of Ballard. Located just a block up from the industrial waterfront, the Ballard Avenue business district extended at an angle from Market Street, which at that time was largely residential, south and east toward Dock Place.

If you were walking down Ballard Avenue in the early days before the sidewalks were poured and the streets paved, you would want to wear good sturdy shoes to navigate the plank boardwalks and the dirt streets where rain-soaked clay, soot from the mills and organic matter were churned together by horse and wagon traffic. You would not see a single shade tree along the way; the community had only too recently worked hard to rid itself of the pesky native vegetation in order to make room for progress.

The smells and sounds of the busy community would be all around you: the whine of mill saws and clank of industry, the varied accents of immigrant voices as shopkeepers and customers went about their daily routine, the jingle and creak of wagon and tack, the clatter of the electric trolley that ran the length of Ballard Avenue. The smoke of industry mixed with the rich smell of the outgoing tide just a block away, providing an interesting backdrop to the aroma of fresh baked goods or hot lunches at the shops and eating establishments along the street.

As a homemaker of Ballard you might come to Ballard Avenue for dry goods (bolts of cloth, household linens, clothing, shoes) at stores like French and Nelsons. For remedies and sundry items you might stop in at the Ballard Pharmacy. You could find a treat for a special occasion at the European Bakery, and fresh or smoked meats and groceries at other shops along the street.

If you had business of an official nature, the City Hall and the public utility offices were located at what is today 22nd and Ballard Avenue. Doctors, lawyers and other professionals occupied upstairs offices along the street. Weekly wages earned by calloused hands and strong backs were banked at establishments like the Scandinavian American Bank at the corner of Ballard Avenue and Vernon.

Public meetings and political rallies were held in a number of halls; and the meeting places of fraternal organizations like the Elks and the Eagles were located along Ballard Avenue. Entertainment, ranging from theater and vaudeville to boxing matches, was to be found in establishments here. And among the storefront businesses, smaller industrial shops like Ballard Sheet Metal offered their services to the mills along the waterfront.

"Spiritual" influence

Saloons - watering holes for the employees of the mills a block away - were numerous along Ballard Avenue. By ordinance, saloons could only be licensed in a four-block stretch of Ballard Avenue. Ballard earned a reputation for having more saloons in those four blocks than any other community west of the Mississippi. The names of these establishments were homey, designed to bring the fellows in after a long day at the mill: The Log Cabin, The Owl, The American Eagle, The New Brunswick, The Old Home. These establishments catered to men, offering whiskey and beer, and usually free food-sandwiches or pickled eggs-to toss down along with a drink. Brass boot rails, polished cuspidors, and ornately carved back bars were the style of the period in the saloons. There were side or rear entrances designed to allow women or minors to enter to fetch a dime bucket of beer to go; or to come in search of a father, son or brother who needed to be called home.

One of the legends that survived the early days of Ballard is that there was an ordinance on the city books that for every saloon license issued a church had to be built. Research has failed to uncover any such ordinance. But the city directories for those years show how the legend could have started: in 1903 there were 10 lumber mills on the waterfront, 10 saloons on Ballard Avenue and 10 churches in the community. In 1906 there were 16 mills, 16 saloons and 16 churches. And in 1906-07, there were 20 mills, 23 liquor licenses granted and 22 churches offered services.

It is interesting to note that of the 22 churches listed in the directories of the time, only one church advertised that its services were conducted in English. Most of the others were conducted in one or another Scandinavian tongue, the home language of the congregation. That is not to say that only the Scandinavians here were churchgoers, nor should it be assumed that Ballard was primarily Scandinavian. But at that time, the resident groups that were most cohesive and capable of hosting or funding the construction of churches here were the one-third of the population that emigrated or descended from immigrants from one or another of the Scandinavian nations. And they were also the group that fostered the greatest variety of denominations: Baptists, Lutherans, Methodist-Episcopal and Evangelicals each for the Swedes, Norwegians, Danes, Finns and Icelanders. The American Baptists and the Catholics could hardly compete!

Important issues of the day polarized the community leading up to Ballard's eventual annexation to Seattle, and campaigning on either side of the debate from behind the pulpits and behind the Ballard Avenue bars was spirited. Looking today at just the numbers of saloons and churches is not sufficient to appreciate how dynamic the uneasy balance between those opposing establishments truly was as the closing events of the City of Ballard played out.

Businesses and Personalities

In recognition of the 100th year anniversary of the ending of the City of Ballard, let's revisit just a few of the personalities and businesses that were part of the vital mix along Ballard Avenue in those early days from 1890 through 1907.

Ballard Sheet Metal Works, still doing business today, first opened on Ballard Avenue in 1907. According to a history of the business printed in Passport to Ballard, it got its start with two enterprising young men. "Oscar T. Simpson and Oscar Ranes were both living in Renton and commuting on the Interurban to Ballard each day where they were employed as sheet metal workers." They eventually opened their own business near the corner of 20th and Ballard Avenue, primarily serving the needs of the mills just a block away in those early days.

W. M. Curtiss Hardware reportedly started business even before the City of Ballard was incorporated. It opened its doors in 1905 at 20th and Ballard Avenue, and it was a "full service" hardware store with a sizeable staff to serve the commercial, industrial and residential needs of the community. In 1916, Mr. Curtiss built a larger, more modern building to house his expanding business. That building at 20th and Leary still bears the Curtiss Building name but has been converted to residential apartments.

A.W. Preston, the Pioneer Druggist, started business in one of the earliest wood-frame commercial buildings along the boardwalk of early Ballard. Like many of the early business owners in Ballard, he was actively involved in promoting community institutions, and was instrumental in supporting the development of the Ballard schools. Later his drug store occupied the two-story triangular stone-faced building built in 1901 that still stands at the corner of 22nd and Ballard Avenue.

The Matthes brothers, according to local tradition, were five brothers who came from Germany. They opened the Old Home Saloon on Ballard Avenue before the turn of the century. This enterprise proved profitable, and in 1903 they were able to finance the construction of a modern brick structure on the corner of Vernon and Ballard Avenue. This building was known as the Matthes Block and later became the home of the Dexter Horton Bank and the Elks Hall. Today we know it as the Ballard Avenue face of the Olympic Health Club. And the Old Home Saloon? It was a place of good reputation, and continued in business from a new location across the street, surviving the prohibition years and war years and a series of owners to eventually become today's familiar fixture, Hattie's Hat.

Frank Pyle, like many of the pioneers in Ballard, served the community in a variety of ways over the years. He was an early town marshal of the community, served at one time as superintendent of lights, as street commissioner and as head of the water works. After retiring from public service he opened a saloon called the Depot Exchange at about 5419 Ballard Avenue, where his name is still inset in the tiles of the building entrance.

Dr. James MacGregor, a local physician, was described as an energetic and conscientious man. When he served as head of the Municipal Department of Health in 1904, it was his responsibility to oversee the closing of unsafe wells, to make sure that no dead animals or accumulations of garbage were creating a health problem, and to control the spread of diseases like scarlet fever, small pox and diphtheria which periodically ran through the population. Saloons and their upstairs boarding houses were among the sites of potential contamination that had to be controlled. A man of his times, he once published recommendations against marriage if one partner was afflicted by a condition such as leprosy, TB or epilepsy. By his efforts in establishing inspections at the local dairies selling milk, publishing guidelines for avoiding the contraction of diseases, and creating other public health policies, Dr. MacGregor is credited for markedly improving the health standards and well-being of the community at that time.

Those for and against annexation

Charley Cox was a vocal member of the Ballard City Council during the annexation debate. By reports in the local paper of the time, Councilman Cox (sometimes referred to as "Uncle" in the local press) was incensed by what he saw as corruption in the local administration, and collusion between the saloon owners, the police department and the mayor. The saloon owners, he charged, were thumbing their noses at the efforts of the defenders of the public good who wanted to control the evils of liquor and crime along Ballard Avenue. He and his fellow councilmen spent much of their energy in late 1906 and early 1907 passing new ordinances, such as those that shortened the hours that saloons could be opened and raised the liquor license fee from $600 to $1000.

Newly appointed Ballard Police Chief William Nabors gave every indication that he would seize the reins of his department with a firm hand. In the Seattle Star of Jan. 5, 1907, it was reported that Chief Nabors gave notice that no gambling would be allowed in the city, and that the sale of liquor to minors would cease. He further gave orders that "...the women who have been making their living around the saloons will have to pack their goods, and if they are not out of town by Monday night, the police will arrest and prosecute them to the full extent of the law."

As the new City Council passed stricter ordinances regarding saloon business, such as earlier closing hours, Chief Nabors ordered his men to enforce these restrictions. But when Sheriff Smith from Seattle came out to Ballard and instructed for its own good that Ballard should enforce the Seattle rules, Chief Nabors refused. This resulted in a nose-to-nose confrontation with Councilman Cox, who ordered him to comply and accused him and his department of being in the pocket of the saloon owners. Chief Nabors again refused, stating that he would enforce the laws that were on the books of the City of Ballard, but for instructions beyond that he could look only to the Mayor.

Mayor H.E. Peck, Ballard attorney, was elected as the 17th mayor of the City of Ballard in 1906. Certainly he knew even as he took the oath of office that it was unlikely his office would last to the end of the next year. He was not particularly popular through his short term in office. When the City Council passed the ordinance nearly doubling the liquor license fees, he vetoed it - and the City Council overrode his veto. When Chief Nabors was attacked verbally for refusing to comply with City Council requests, and accused of running a corrupt department, he defended the Chief on the basis of separation of authority between the Council and the Mayor's office. Perhaps more than anyone, H.E. Peck was holding a position between the powerful levers that were poised to pry the structure of the community apart.

Rev. Elmer E. Thompson was the pastor of the Ballard Presbyterian Church during the annexation debates. This church was one of the earliest founded in Ballard, starting back in 1889 with Sunday school classes held at one of the sawmill boarding houses. Rev. Thompson was outspoken on issues of morality and public welfare. After the city council and mayoral election in October 1906 he was quoted as saying, "...two saloons dictated the last election...our city is wide open. Women throng to our saloons and boys are but little restrained."

Even after annexation was approved the following spring, Rev. Thompson spoke out cautioning the community not to expect any easy answers. In a sermon, which was reprinted in the Ballard News of May 17, 1907, he stated, "The change will only be in name, and we will have our own problems, only they will be more complicated. It is not a case of jumping out of the frying pan into the pasture or creek, but out of the frying pan into the fire. We will have, as part of Greater Seattle, our peculiar problems. Being a residence section, and becoming more so, yet we will have a saloon element in our midst and in our politics; and, true to its nature, it will be the disturbing and destroying force, ever strong to do evil, never doing right..."

Bill McLaughlin and Officer Steen on the day after annexation. We all know that on May 29, 1907, the City of Seattle officially took possession of what had been the City of Ballard. But according to reports in the local press, there was a shortage of policemen to cover the Ballard community now that it was part of Seattle. None of the Ballard officers had yet completed the civil service exams to joint the Seattle PD, and arrangements had not yet been made to provide officers from other precincts. So it happened that on the first day that Ballard officially belonged to the City of Seattle, it fell to one Officer Steen to patrol the entire area, focusing-of course-on Ballard Avenue.

Now, Officer Steen was well versed in the Seattle City ordinances governing the saloon trade, as well as those regarding keeping sidewalks clear for foot traffic. So when he happened upon the Log Cabin Saloon, whose front entrance was decorated to attract potential customers with the portions of hewn cedar logs extending out onto the public walkway in front of the entrance, he went inside to have a word with the proprietor.

William McLaughlin, who had a reputation as a rough and tough saloon owner of the most notorious Ballard tradition, objected to Officer Steen's observation that he was in violation of Seattle City Ordinance. As it was reported, the discussion became heated, and led to blows being exchanged between the two gentlemen. Officer Steen placed McLaughlin under arrest and hauled him in to the nearest precinct house. But after he was booked, McLaughlin turned around and filed charges against Officer Steen accusing that it was the officer who had landed the first blow.

Officer Steen found himself in the unusual predicament of having to arrest himself, be allowed off on his own recognizance, and continue on his beat.

Susan Cook contributed to the 1988 Passport to Ballard community history project as a volunteer writer and researcher, volunteered for a number of years with the Ballard Historical Society, and has served as historian to the Ballard Avenue Landmark District Board. Though she is not a Ballard native, her son represents the sixth generation of her family to be born in or live in Ballard since the 1880s. Today Susan operates a licensed therapeutic massage practice and a bookkeeping service here in Ballard, but enjoys the opportunity to revisit and share the history she so enjoyed investigating.