. . . Well, close by, anyway

Chinook's

1900 West Nickerson

283-4665

Breakfast: Saturday: 7:30 - 11:30, Sunday: 7:30 - 1:30

Lunch: Monday to Friday: 11 - 4, Saturday: 11:30 - 4

Dinner: Monday to Thursday: 4 - 10, Friday and Saturday: 4 - 11, Sunday: 1:30 - 10

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

OK, technically it's not in Ballard. Once one crosses the Ballard Bridge, one is in Magnolia. However, Chinook's is at Fisherman's Terminal. Magnolia can't take that away from us! We hereby claim Chinook's for Ballard.

Although it's part of the Anthony's chain, Chinook's is the standout. The setting is amazing, right at the pier with the emotional and moving Fisherman's Memorial just outside. Crowded with fishing boats, the wide and upgraded docks make a refreshing and invigorating bird watching venue. The night we were there featured a sparkling and placid setting, with a breathtaking sunset ablaze facing our ringside window seats.

While Chinook's is very crowded on the weekends and in the summer, it's usually easy to get a seat in the bar, as long as your party doesn't include children. But even if you have to wait for a seat in the restaurant, a basket of warmed, herbed focaccia bread is delivered to your table instantly, along with iced water and menus. At breakfast, substitute their famous scones served with orange-laced butter and coffee. With the roomy environs, there's plenty of room outside to run around, making this place even more child-friendly.

But back to the bar. The casual atmosphere and TVs tuned to the Mariners or the Seahawks add to the fun, and boats to the Husky games even depart from here. Being Oregon State Beaver believers, we've frankly never been very excited about the Huskies, but that boat ride sounds fun enough even for a Beaver backer.

The servers are the real deal at Chinook's: professional, quick, and they know their stuff. Ours was a total pro, checking to make sure we were OK with bacon in the spinach salad, and to make sure we liked green beans, the daily vegetable. Of course both were fine, who in Ballard doesn't like bacon and green beans, but we appreciated her asking, and it was nice to know she would have accommodated us had there been a problem.

At Chinook's old and young, hip and square, Ballardites and Magnolians gather. A couple of seniors shared an ice cream sundae, looking like teens in an old fashioned malt shop. Guys checked out the TV games while eating fish and chips (all you can eat for $13.50 on Monday nights) and pretending to listen to their girlfriends. Meanwhile, we were diving into a big-league shrimp cocktail ($5.95), showcased in one of those big sundae glasses and loaded with fresh crisp celery, an entire leaf of romaine standing up proudly, and reliable cocktail sauce poured over the top like chocolate sauce over a banana split.

Batting second, the Boston Clam chowder ($4.25) and the Spinach Salad ($4.25) are prepared the traditional way and are top-notch values, with that little packet of Oyster Crackers accompanying the chowder very evocative of childhood.

Next came pan seared, crispy and not-at-all-greasy Willapa Bay Oysters, with Fisherman's potatoes and the green beans we're not afraid of ($14.95). We did experience the heartbreak of the too salty, too buttery fresh vegetable, but we grieved and moved on. Grilled corn salsa with zucchini and red pepper garnishes the oysters, and is a real stand out with its fresh and sturdy texture.

The Salmon Pot Pie ($12.95), served with the same sides, is comforting and just the thing for a chilly autumn evening. Robust and irregular chunks of salmon buttress a light creamy broth. Loaded with peas and herbs, this old-school salute to Grandma's kitchen is topped with a puffy little cloud of pastry.

A visit to the Fisherman's Memorial just outside the restaurant should be a part of any trip to Chinook's. The monument made of bronze and stone pays tribute to the commercial fishing industry and those who have lost their lives at sea. It's a place of reverence to visit before or after dinner, and an appropriate way to give thanks to the bounty from the sea.

Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson are longtime Ballard residents and may be reached at bnteditor@robinsonnews.com