Big drinks and little bites

Tigertail Restaurant & Bar

704 N.W. 65th Street

781-8245

Open 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily (must be 21)

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

There's a lot of buzz about the new Tigertail Restaurant and Bar in the 65th Street Gulch, and we checked in with great anticipation. Our first trip was short-circuited by an under active kitchen pending approval by Mayor Nickels, but left us impressed with the design and general positive vibrations of the establishment.

The next visit a week later resulted in continued optimism about the place. While still brand new and with feet not-quite-squarely on the ground, Tigertail is taking the time needed to fill a niche with creativity, quality, and flair.

The design is a knockout, with dark orange walls, plushly pillowed window seats, subdued lighting, and striking recycled old-school light fixtures evoking a cross between the old Ballard Eagles lodge and grandpa's party room.

Comfortable (and matching, what a concept!) Asian-Polynesian furniture is both spacious and attractive in its simple design. Big tables provide plenty of room for the "small plate" servings, while unassuming and friendly wait staff make it welcoming.

With walls delightfully free of knick-knacks or other kitsch, but instead decorated sparingly with rotating art, Tigertail's room offers a tranquil feel, still punctuated with the ever-so-slight smell of varnish. The owners did most of the work themselves, reusing fixtures from old businesses, but it all looks new and modern.

A trip to the ungendered bathroom is mandatory, if only to eyeball the breathtaking sink and counter. The shiny Japanese-style fountain sink shimmers in the dimly lit room, on a counter brightly decorated with swimming carp. (Another must-see bathroom in Ballard is at Market Street's Hazlewood, where it's hard to tell if you're in a bathroom or very small church.)

When we heard about the pan-Asian theme spearheaded by a former Lark chef, we started to get hungry. Food is indeed small, but so are the prices. Generously portioned Wild Mushroom Pot Stickers ($7) are sizzled nicely, with a crunchy cap and a zesty accompanying soy-based dipping sauce. Steamed Clams ($8) come in a small bowl, served with two small pieces of toasted, seasoned French bread. The broth called out for an absorbent vessel, and we wished we could have had some regular bread. When we asked, we got more toast. We looked at the remaining elixir-like broth longingly, deciding not to just drink it out of the bowl.

The show-stopper at our table was tender Pork Belly with Braised Greens and Brussels Sprouts, a most surely small plate with a square, fragrant cube of Pork Belly. This relatively recent newcomer to many western menus can intimidate, with its fat content higher than what we usually find in pork dishes. But they eat lard for fun in Italy for goodness sake, and a little fat won't kill you, particularly with the restrained portioning.

A leafy, wonderfully dressed Tossed Green Salad ($6) rounded out our meal. Dotted with the bright and festive pomegranate seeds, the carefully crafted salad delivered on the promise of well washed and dried butter lettuce, becoming one with a lightly-poured vinaigrette dressing.

There's an egalitarian feel to the place - women cook and the men serve out front. Half the crowd were women, making it a comfortable setting for gals to hang out. Billed as a restaurant and bar, the cozy space is conducive to quiet conversation. The low profile, high fidelity sound system features an eclectic mix of treasures from punk rock to trance.

With elegant wooden chopsticks folded into linen napkins, the atmosphere calls for lingering over the thoughtful food. But while the menu is still in the formative stages, that doesn't seem to be what Tigertail has in mind. Drinking appears to be the front-line activity here, evidenced by the extensive beer, wine and sake list, along with handcrafted and delicious signature cocktails with unusual ingredients and catchy names. Our favorite was the Pacific Rim Job ($7), aka Ginger Margarita with housemade ginger-and-lime simple syrup.

We're turned off by the obsession with portioning that degrades American food culture, and Tigertail's rejection of the walrus-food plating is a relief. Consequently, it's more a place to go for a snack, pre/post dinner bites, a nice drink, and a comforting environment. Sure, we still wish we could just have had a little rustic bread to soak up the clam broth, but maybe it's not the end of the world to leave a little something in the bowl. As Tigertail continues to fill out their menu, we expect to find new riches on our return visits.

Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson have spent years visiting restaurants and writing reviews. They can be reached via bnteditor@robinsonnews.com