Il Giardino impresses

Il Giardino Ristorante Italiano

716 NW 65th Street

(206) 420-8457

Tuesday-Saturday: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.,

Sunday: 5 p.m.-9 p.m.,

Closed Mondays

www.ilgiardinocuccina.com

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

When Anna Maria Alberghetti reached out across the black-and-white TV screen and stopped the evil "bottled dressing" from being poured on her fresh salad in the early Good Seasons salad dressing commercials, a legend was born. Who was Anna Maria Alberghetti? Who else lived in her house, ate in that kitchen? Were her meatballs any good?

The proud way she said her name "I'm Anna Marie Alberghetti!" implied greatness. Her exotic hoop earrings and dark luxurious hair added to her legendary stature. We didn't know who she was, but we understood we were supposed to be impressed, and we were.

Later we would learn that she was a famous child prodigy-turned-Broadway actress and singer, but we didn't know that as 10-year-olds. We knew that she was a friendly-looking person with a motherly smile, and we wanted to eat dinner at Anna Marie Alberghettis's house.

And if Anna Maria Alberghetti had invited us over, it might have been like Il Giardino, at 7th and 65th Street Northwest. Transformed from a Ballard bungalow into Anna Maria Alberghetti's house (think Italian IKEA), the family Italian restaurant is welcoming and cozy. Impressive in its remodel, the house-turned-restaurant features cozy spaces, an open feel, and fine ambiance.

Italian pop music plays prominently in the background and Tuscan countryside murals decorate the walls, sponge-painted rich saffron. Flowing and gauzy muted red drapes complete the Italian feel. Vaulted ceilings keep the space from feeling cramped, and an upstairs dining room, used when crowded, overlooks the first floor like a balcony.

Starting with the Antipasti Di Verdura (grilled seasonal vegetables), $9.95, we welcomed the freshness and variety brought by this lively item. Eggplant, new potatoes, broccoli, yellow squash, carrots, artichoke hearts and mushrooms share the stage in the large-enough-for-two appetizer.

Ravioli Giardino ($16) tucks chicken or cheese into fresh and yielding ravioli. Saut/ed shitake mushrooms lord over the proceedings in a creamy pink sauce; and the housemade ravioli are simple and satisfying.

Linguini Con Vongole ($15) breaks from the crowd with the all-shell presentation. Lesser eateries feature the same dish with just a few decorative clam shells providing cover to canned and chopped bivalves. Here, the clams come attached. Add pasta and lemony garlic-olive oil sauce, and get out the compass pointing to goodness.

The steady wine list offers a Paggiotondo Chianti Superiore for a modest $9. The rose (Rosato Regaleai $8.50), tells a dry and refreshing tale, one that bears hearing over and over again. Il Giardino has a comfortable bar up front where solo diners or groups sit contentedly. Live music is featured on Fridays (Italian Tarantellas) from 7 to 10 p.m., and wine by the bottle is half price on Tuesdays. If Anna Maria Alberghetti were here, we're sure she'd show up on Tuesdays, have a glass of Rosato, and talk us into some sort of attractive dessert.

Tidbits: It looks like the vacated space across from Rain City Video on 32nd is going to be a pizza restaurant ... Pizzeria Picolino has applied for a liquor license. Also, China Cat Coffee and Tea on 70th NW has shut its doors, but in the same block Honore Bakery is opening in June, with Lighthouse Coffee. But best of all, in the spot formerly occupied by Domino's and Paradise Pizza at 500 Market Street ... Veraci Pizza is opening! The Travelling Pizza People will be opening sometime this summer. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.