Lombardi's knows new tricks

2200 NW Market Street

783-0055

http://www.lombardiscucina.com/

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

The upper level at Ballard institution Lombardi's offers unique and scenic views of Ballard. Looking down Leary Way, diners can see all the way to Queen Anne, with the view framed like a painting by exterior trees. Unseen, diners spy on pedestrians below and enjoy the beautiful facades of the old brick buildings.

Lombardi's is a neighborhood fixture that deserves a second look - it's an old dog that's learned a few new tricks. Seasonal menus, a dual happy hour (3 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. until closing) and sidewalk seating are some of its best features. The Happy Hour features several $6 tempters, including Peel and Eat Prawns, Salmon and Fries, Bruschetta Sampler and a Gorgonzola Burger.

The modern deep orange and burgundy color scheme of this venerable and updated institution may sound a little scary, but in fact creates warmth and intimacy. The accents of gold and the light-colored wood furniture keep it from being too heavy. Hefty silverware and linen napkins give the restaurant a formal feel, but casual dress is fine in this cheery atmosphere.

In what used to be single floor establishment with high ceilings, there now are two floors, with an intimate feel on the second level. The remodel a few years back created a large landing on the stairs up to the higher floor, and Lombardi's moved their bar to what may be the only bar in Seattle on a stairway landing. It's an odd feeling to find the bar in this location, but makes efficient use of the space. While the former bar was tucked in the corner of the first floor, the new one is more open, and is not recommended for patrons trying to have a hidden and secretive encounter.

Summer's Seasonal Menu has just begun, starting in mid-June. We were just in time to take advantage of the freshness. The Halibut Skewers ($9) arrive laced with apple chunks and marinated cherry tomatoes, piled atop a slaw of carrots, apples, and red onions tossed with vinaigrette. Propped against each other like pick-up sticks on the plate, the decorative design provides a celebratory effect.

Caprese ($8.50) at Lombardi's is healthy wedges of fresh mozzarella, giant and appropriately asymmetrical heirloom tomato slices, and fresh leaves of basil topped with high quality olive oil. Reminiscent of similar dishes in Italy, this plate deserves accolades. Complimentary bread is served with a whole head of sweet roasted garlic. We squeeze it out all over our hands, and have to do some heavy de-garlicking later, but the roasted, woody flavor makes it worth it.

The entr/e-sized seared Ahi Tuna Panzanella Salad ($16) comes with wild greens, halved cherry tomatoes, sweet balsamic vinaigrette and cubes of grilled rustic bread. While the tuna seems a bit fibrous and chewy, the light hand with the dressing and accompanying fresh greens satisfy. Tuscan white beans topped with a grilled chicken breast ($17) is the star tonight. Accompanied by warm and crunchy asparagus spears, this hearty dish is filling yet healthy. The simply prepared chicken, cooked through but still soft and pliable, almost has a fish-like texture, evidencing a thoughtful hand in the kitchen.

What Italian dinner is complete without gelato? The vanilla bean flavor is our choice ($5). The finishing touch gives us time for conversation, which is easy in this spacious, cozy, and quiet restaurant. While Lombardi's has been around for a long time, its contemporary feel coupled with solid kitchen performance warrants a return visit.

Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.