Picolino's food satisfies - but some space, service problems

Ristorante Picolinos

6415 32nd Ave. N.W.

Tue-Sun. 5 p.m.-10 p.m.

By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson

The new Ristorante Picolinos does not lack ambition. This sprawling business was formerly occupied by a lawn mower shop, a piano repair business, a beauty salon, and a pottery making concern. With a huge patio and future ambitions to boot, the owners have bitten off a mouthful. Plans are afoot to expand into the north end of the building with an espresso-by-day, tapas-by-night scenario. It will be fascinating to see if this wildly mixed neighborhood, with gritty apartments next to sound-view uber-homes, can support such aspirations.

One of the more impressive and moving aspects of Picolinos is their obvious commitment to local artists and purveyors. The massive and arty remodel is replete with hand-fashioned wall sconces, original iron work, beautifully crafted bar and accompanying woodwork, new tables and chairs, subtle but solid flooring. All came from Ballard craftspeople according to our sublimely chatty and friendly bartender.

As any good news watcher in Ballard will recall, there was some hoo-haw when this project was introduced regarding planned live music. But the establishment showed good faith and addressed neighborhood concerns, and for now the natives are at rest, including the ones sitting at the cozy bar enjoying a glass of Cavatappi Sangiovese, a rock-bottom value at six bucks per glass (cocktail service is available, too).

It's early in the whole process for sure, as Picolinos has only been open a few weeks. Our two trips were diverse and often satisfying, with interesting and well executed food coupled with occasionally bizarre service, a staff oddly driven to say "Sierra Mist" as many times as possible, some tables hardly big enough to seat a pair of puppies, lawsuit-magnet steps between building sections just waiting to take somebody out, a bartender full of old-school charm, and pizza that makes it all worth it.

Sure, there was some table-side angst as we watched our pies come out of the brick oven and sit cooling for ten minutes while, literally feet away from our table while our server tended to a larger party. Neither of us had the nerve to just get up and get 'em, but perhaps the chef could have brought them over. So sit we did, watching the rising steam slowly disappear from the crust.

But when the pizzas arrived, they were still winners. The Siciliano ($12.50), with the blessing only pepperoni can bring, brought it home old school style. Thin and crunchy, the crust is everything crust should be. Chef Baer worked the gas-fired oven masterfully, wielding the oven peel (the big pizza spatula) skillfully, slicing the pizza with a double-handled pizza knife like a machete-wielding farmer. We wondered if Chef Baer might be related to actor Max Baer Jr. (Jethro on the Beverly Hillbillies). Certainly Chef Baer doesn't much resemble Jethro, but we still couldn't rule it out.

The accompanying pizza buddy called the Napoli ($12) also delivers. While the toppings of spinach, mushrooms, and artichokes were high-quality to be sure, in reality any items would be good atop such a marvelous crust. Kudos Chef Baer!

Our salad experience was mixed (as opposed to tossed), but we walked away generally pleased with offerings. On one trip, we had a deftly dressed Caesar Wedge ($7), lightly kissed by the lips of an anchovy-shaded dressing, then topped discreetly with shaved Romano. The quickest way to our hearts is a lightly-dressed salad. Chilled leafs, light dressing, deft tossage, and reserved cheese-use left us breathless with admiration.

While the salad of our second visit (Ensalata Misto, $7) was on the soggy side, ingredients were undeniably fresh, and the flavorful and herb-savvy dressing practically reached out and slapped us (gently of course) with its remarkable flavor.

On our initial visit, we were seated at a puzzling table, apparently designed for two year olds. The middle dining room, where the bar is located, is candle-lit and romantic, and parties of two gravitate naturally towards it rather than the more brightly-lit first dining room.

Shoe-horned in between a wall and a piano, our table was covered with holiday cheer, replete with squashes, pumpkins, glasses, salt and pepper, olive oil, plates, and bowls. While the setting was festive, there did appear to be a table setting for 12 at our table for 1.5. Luckily for us the piano was close by, and we stashed some of the pumpkins on top, opening up our space and allowing for a more relaxed experience. Other diners struggled with their table size as well.

Mixed Grill for Two is a grill to remember. Priced nicely at $28 total, it showcases the kitchen's light touch. Beef, chicken, and shrimp are all grilled to perfection, reminding of us a similar dish in Northern Italy. Bleu-cheesed mashed potatoes could easily become a favorite in this reasonably price, Med-Euro spot.

Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com. The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food in full.