Although the location of The Dish has been described as "the nondescript neighborhood between Ballard and Fremont", we know better. It's Frelard, which we can claim for Ballard when Fremont isn't looking. The Dish is one of the highlights of this in-between area, the westernmost member of the triumvirate of restaurants in the historic buildings on Leary Way which we're delighted are still standing.

It's true everyone waits in line to eat at the Dish, unless you go on a weekday or get there at some ungodly hour. But the wait is pleasant as it can be. It's clear where to put your name on the list, in rainy weather there's a tarp to stand under, and self service coffee on a cute cart is offered outside. Once inside, familiar-feeling Formica tables greeted us, with menus and water already placed. That's a nice touch!

Breakfast and lunch are both served all day, in case you're one of those people who need a sandwich for breakfast. Omeletes are "build your own" or choose from a long list of favorites ($8.75 - $9.25), including Napoli, Denver, Oreck (isn't that a vacuum?), Roma, Tofu Delight, and Seattle to Portland.

This restaurant is kid friendly if your kid can stand the wait, and the menu includes kid pancakes, French toast and fruit plate. Children fit in well as part of the diverse blend of customers, and the moderate roar of the sound level masks the little squeaking of tots nicely. The close quarters actually give the Dish a slightly urban feel, and may not be a good fit for those made nervous by sitting closely next to strangers, or by whiffing the reeking smell of someone who just sucked down a cigarette in 20 seconds. But for the non-agoraphobes, it's just plain and simple coziness.

In addition to the omelets, standard fare of breakfast burritos, corned beef hash (crisp on the outside piled high on a plate of several other warm and soft things, this looked like a true winner), and biscuits and gravy are available. Service is sincere, friendly and prompt, accompanied by non-stop coffee and entirely free of the automaton service behaviors that are so deeply troubling. Simply put, there are no robots working here.

The homey feel is indeed enhanced by little fresh flower displays at each table. On the day of our visit it was oh so chilly outside, but inside the warmth, laughter, smell of eggs and coffee, and broad expansive of sky nestled over Fred Meyer across Leary created a most inviting environment. And for those who might consider this to be Fremont, we would hasten to add that the neighboring Fred Meyer is officially called Ballard Fred Meyer.

Tidbits: We had high hopes for Piccolino's bid to become a great neighborhood hangout. So far they have struck out. Although a new chef and a new pizza maker are in residence, sharp edges still need polishing. The pizza was not done in the middle last time we tried it, and the wait staff seemed to lack experience and blamed us for their mistakes. We're not sure what the problem is, but we want them to succeed! Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com

Dish Cafe
4358 Leary Way N.W.
Phone: 782-9985
Hours: Tue-Sat 7 a.m. - 2 p.m., Sun 8 a.m. - 2 p.m.