Root Table
2213 N.W. Market St.
11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., lunch and dinner served daily
Happy Hour 4-6 p.m. and 9-11 p.m. daily
420-3214

Tables made of lightly processed wood (still resembling the trees of its origin) and a dark, calm atmosphere create an oasis where Frodo and Sam could start with Second Breakfast and work their way to the end of the day.

The Root Table's earthy and serene mossy greens and browns add to the enchanted forest feel of the restaurant, and the two levels, separated by a wide, brief stairway, make the room seem spacious.

The furniture and decorative, twig-like wall sconces are all from Thailand, imported by the owners of the restaurant, who also run the furniture store downstairs. The experience is almost like eating in a beautiful showroom.

It reminds us of a series of theatrical performances set in Renton's IKEA, where a local theater group used the ready-made IKEA sets for a series of short one act dramas. At Root Table, diners can act out their own dining dramas in this showy and cinematic setting, where even the menus have attractive and ornate wooden covers.

The Asian Fusion menu includes sandwiches, soups and salads for lunch, and appetizers (strangely called "tapas" on the menu) and entrees for dinner. Happy Hours offer $4 "tapas" and drink specials.

We wondered if there are boundaries for what can be called tapas. Is it just anything small and $6-ish? Does there need to be some tie-in to the Spanish originated small plate theme? Could a plate of lutefisk and dill sauce be called "tapas" if presented on a diminutive plate?

Market Street BBQ Chicken with the "Secret Family Recipe" ($6), is succulent and moist, and served "wings" style, with bones in and grill marks on the outside. After working through this item quickly, we think we know the secret recipe. But our lips are sealed.

Seasoned Root Vegetable Fries provoke some ambivalence, even discord at our table. Like any thing fried and hot, they elicit immediate excitement and enthusiasm, moving to a more detached and questioning stance as our hunger is slaked, and as the oil cools on the little shoestring things. White and starchy, this nicely portioned boat-o-fries is a value at $5, and begs for additional pepper.

The oddly named Salmon Crackers ($10) are crispy and fried spring rolls shells, featuring soft and flavorful salmon wrapped with a generous layer of hot and compacted spinach. The yellow, orange and green colors shimmer in the dramatic lighting of Root Table, causing us to ponder why we never think of salmon and spinach as the winning combination underscored by this dish.

Tigers on the Bed (GRRR!!, $10), is black tiger shrimp kissed with mellow yellow curry, atop a saucy but not wet pile of al dente angel hair pasta, under the cover of festive cilantro garnish. Like most of the menu items, it leaned toward the spicy, but stopped short of the bored-chef heat level far too common among the chain-smoking chefs of the city. (Confidential to Seattle cooks: smoking kills your taste buds!)

The Tilapia Special ($10) makes us revisit our tilapia-phobia, brought on by one too many ammonia-laden experiences of this mild fish often sent to Seattle from lands afar. This friendly filet was breaded artfully with a crispy and light effect, enhanced by the bed of chopped apple and greens salad with chili lime dressing. Very well done, chef.

Passion fruit Mojitos ($7) are a fine accompaniment to the spicy food, as is the charmingly oddball beer selection. Our server was busy, multi-tasking in her multiple roles as bartender, greeter, hostess and wait staff. But she held up well, and we were drawn to her sincerity and apparently genuine interest in what we thought and how we were progressing through the meal.

We'll return for sure and launch a more thorough investigation in to the promising sandwiches and salads. But the early results are in, and it looks like a winner. Not many Ballard (or other hoods, for that matter) establishments provide such a unique mix of design and consistent kitchen execution.

Just another reason to be happy to live in Ballard.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.