Bastille Cafe and Bar
5307 Ballard Ave. N.W.
453-5014
Daily 4:30 p.m. to 1 a.m., Sunday Brunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Seattle's a restaurant town, and it seems that Ballard's become the restaurant neighborhood.

The opening of Bastille Cafe and Bar has been enthusiastically anticipated by many as nearby residents watched it being built. All eyes were on Bastille as it took its first steps.

The instant rush of criticism and comments about a new establishment, thanks to the Web and social media, can be rough. New places need time to work out the kinks. But Bastille also made itself a hard act to follow with the stunning environment created by the owners. And with a long pedigree between them (Caffe Fiore, Triangle Tavern, Peso's, The Ballroom) they've already gotten attention from food bloggers, print and other media in the six weeks they've been open for business.

Beautiful finds from Paris flea markets mixed with Seattle antiques adorn the new space. Decor includes recycled materials from the previous occupier of the space, Obermaier Machine Works, and small white tiles reminiscent of Paris Metro stations.

The created feeling is almost perfect: a casual place to hang out, with gorgeous surroundings, a classic bistro menu with seasonal touches (lettuce and herbs grown in their own roof garden), ample seating, an outdoor patio, two bars.

Lighting is subtle, as it is in small Paris cafes devoid of neon.

Every time we've visited (in spite of mishaps, we seem to keep going back) we've been blown away by the food. From falafel to oysters to macaroni and cheese to grilled salmon, it stands up to be noticed.

The problems, unfortunately, start with the service. Ranging from slow enough to be annoying to so bad we've almost left. The service is lacking.

Perhaps it's the fault of some of the systems in place, for example the servers can't pour wine for their customers but have to wait for the bartender. Some customers have already figured this out and order two drinks at a time, but many end up nursing their glasses of wine since they don't know when they'll get another.

It usually takes much longer than we'd like to have a meal, and that's why we've never had dessert at Bastille -- we can't stand to wait any longer. Also food has been delivered cold on occasion, requiring more waiting to have it fixed.

And, regretfully, the otherwise plump and luscious steamed mussels have included a bad mussel or two. A few other issues have occurred, like wine served in a wet glass.

Some of the workers seem to be standing around when they could be doing something (like pouring wine), but they are generally pleasant, and hopefully the service glitches will be fixed, and the food can continue to shine like it deserves to.

Biting into the falafel sandwich took us right back to the Marais District in Paris. The evocative flavors of the tahini and red cabbage adorning the ample sandwich is nothing like any falafel we've tasted in Seattle.

Regulars in the small plate section of the menu include Grilled Octopus ($14) , served with chickpeas, preserved lemon and harissa. This dish has never disappointed.

Bastille's menu includes many reasonably priced French cafe favorites like Roasted Chicken ($17), Steak Frites ($18), Braised Lamb Shank ($21), and French Onion Soup ($11). We've had good experiences with these classics (and the frites have always been crisp, kept warm in a metal cup), but the specials bedazzle us.

On a recent visit, the Grilled Coho Salmon ($21) was dressed with vinaigrette made with preserved lemon (Bastille preserves it themselves!). Providing the bed for the salmon were peas so fresh they jumped into our mouths and said "Wow!", or maybe that was us.

Chopped asparagus and green beans tasting equally fresh completed the verdant medley. A chopped heirloom tomato and frisee salad ($11), also on special that night, featured the most tomato-y burst of flavor around. On a previous visit, heirloom tomatoes were simply sliced, arranged on a plate and drizzled with vinaigrette, a preparation showcasing the tomatoes' talents.

Grilled squash and eggplant over braised chard tossed with balsamic and mustard ($12) satisfied nicely as the smoky taste came through. Seasonal side dishes, like Summer Pole Beans with Garlic and Butter ($4) are also of note for their crispness and spirit.

The order of green and yellow beans is enough to share. Bread costs extra ($3) at Bastille, which draws some complaints. But here's a tip: it's three dollars for all the bread you want.

Bastille is open, airy, and big, which means it's usually possible to get a seat without a reservation, especially in the bar at a table or at the zinc-topped counter. But the size makes the restaurant a bit noisy, too.

Some of the tables in the dining room are too close together, and the servers have to squeeze to get by and bump into the chairs filled with customer, but when sitting at the bar there is plenty of room, and the patio tables are farther apart.

The food definitely steals the show, with the chefs bringing impressive experience (French Laundry, Cafe Campagne, Union) to the mix. Now all Bastille needs to do is get their act together with the service (and occasional quality misfortunes) and they'll be unstoppable.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.