Smokin' Pete's BBQ
1918 N.W. 65th St., 783-0454
Monday-Wednesday: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Thursday-Saturday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Sunday: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Smokin' Pete's is one of those places we've overlooked for quite some time, based on a long-past visit that yielded little pleasure. We pass the former butcher shop regularly and talk more among our selves about the custom handbag shop across the street.

Maybe it's because we really liked the old butcher shop and never really made the adjustment to Smokin Pete's. We wondered who Pete was and why he smoked. But, for whatever the reason, this place was off our radar.

When driving by recently, we noticed an incredibly rich, sweet and smoky aroma. We commented that if the food tastes anything like it smells, we'd best get ourselves in again for a return date with some barbecue.

So in we went, and when we spotted a soccer mom and another soccer mom with their soccer children, sitting quietly and working studiously through big plates of brisket and links, washing it all own with pints of micro, we felt the endorphin factory kick in.

We comboed it up quickly, sharing a catfish-brisket platter -- adorned with purposefully chilled grilled broccoli ($15.95 for your choice of two sides and two meats) -- as well as a crunchy, sun-spattered corn salad.

A quartered chicken ($7.95 with one side) and slaw brought it home at our table as well, and we were pleased as punch with the varied fare.

The catfish is fish-n-chips-style, with a batter that may have been more appropriate when used with a deep fryer. This appeared to have been pan-fried, and with the flavor literally locked in from the seared batter shell, the mild fish stayed whole, firm and super-juicy.

A large chunk of brisket served us well for two days, but darned if we weren't a little sad to find it just slightly on the dry side. While we've had more emotionally engaging brisket, this was not bad, and the marvelous thing about barbecue joints is that sauce is never far away. The sauce here is hot, tomato-based, packed with body, and turns the brisket into something slightly spiritual. Not as spiritual as it can get, but still spiritual.

Originally self-described as "regional and international barbecue" (with the claim still hanging from a slightly tattered awning in front), Eric and Julie Reinhardt took over a few years ago, and have steered the Smokin Pete's ship back in to national and regional waters.

Think Memphis, think Carolina (with vinegar a regular presence), and think flavor-trumps-heat. Not that both can't occur, but the light hand on the blowout factor here is welcome.

While we only eyeballed (and inhaled!) the pulled pork sandwich ($8.95), it looks and smells very much like a winner. Served on a baguette and fragrant with the Carolina-style "sour sauce," this sandwich has strong table appeal.

The hot links also called our names loudly ($11.95 for two Hempler links, two sides, and some cornbread). When we encounter hot links, we remember Eddie Cotton's on Madison in the 1970s, the first place we ever sunk our teeth into a juicy, tightly-cased hot link, shoved into a perfect burger. They do a similar "add on" here with the link, topping a pulled pork sando called the "slow dog" ($8.95).

Sides surpass the standard gummy beans and rice action often bringing barbecue down. The vegetable-dotted side menu (broccoli, two kinds of greens and colorful slaw) is appreciated, and includes chilled watermelon chunks, almost glowing and iridescent.

As we get older, we look for ways to maximize vegetables in every setting, knowing full well that the clock's ticking, and any meal eaten absent any fruit or vegetables takes about six months off the life-o-meter. Heck, we felt we added a few weeks eating at Smokin' Pete's!

A kid-friendly basket of toys, a kid's menu and an old cash register to play with underscore the family atmosphere, and there's beer for the grownups. Butcher paper with crayons doubles as placemats and coloring canvases.

Pete's also sells barbecue recipe books and sauces. It's smoky, it's flavorful, it's in the neighborhood and there's live music on Thursdays. And while we're talking add-ons, we enjoy reading owner Julie Reinhardt's blog.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.