zaw
5458 Leary Ave. N.W.
206.297.1334
www.zaw.com
Sunday - Thursday: 3 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Friday - Saturday: 3 p.m. - 10 p.m.

Take-and-bake pizza has been around a long time, but never like this!

Seasonal and local ingredients, nothing frozen and each pizza prepared to order elevate zaw's fare to a higher plane.

We accessed their services at the Leary Avenue and Ballard Farmers Market location, but they also serve Capitol Hill and South Lake Union.

The designer "We make 'em, you bake 'em" pizzas are unique among Seattle's pizza parade. "Handcrafted" takes on a whole new meaning when customers get to watch their order carefully assembled.

Zaw, of course, references the youthful shorthand reference to pizza (PEET-zaw, as in, "Dude, let's go get some zaw").

From the Leary locale comes the "Vietzawn," their take on the Vietnamese baguette sandwich. That may sound weird, but this is a really fine pizza. And we are not kidding one bit about that.

Shredded carrots, free-range chicken cut thin and tight, rich and earthy button mushrooms and basil are crowned with a spicy sauce standing astride a thin and crunchy whole-wheat crust worthy of stand-alone eating.

A medium runs $14, and a large sets you back $17.

Are these prices cheap? Not particularly. Could you get more volume at less money at other pizza establishments where you don't have to take it home and bake it? Yes.

But, think of it more like this: Could you get a Picasso for $14 dollars? Never. And, the pizza at zaw is a work of art.

While it takes about 10 minutes to wait for the pizza, it's enjoyable to hang out and chat with the always conversant crew, observing as they place each little ingredient on the pizza like it really matters.

Take the magical circle home, throw it down in the oven for about 10 minutes, and it's show time. Online ordering and delivery (via bicycle) is also available, but you'd miss seeing the artists at work.

At the Sunday Ballard Farmers Market, we got a large "Marg and Rita" (halved cherry tomatoes, fat and mild roasted garlic cloves, organic basil with a mozzarella/parmesan blend) on one half, with the other semi-circle a "Pumpkin Patch." Chunks of pumpkin, mozzarella and Isernio's sausage provide the knockout punch for this odd-sounding yet seasonal, power-packed pizza.

We ordered a large ($18) and couldn't finish it, offering the uneaten half to our pizza-loving friends in Greenwood.

Their thoughts? "No other take-and-bake could carry this pizza's water." We are in complete concurrence.

As for the crusts, we favor whole wheat, particularly when it's thin and even cracker-like, as is the case with zaw.

Wheat or more traditional white, theses crusts too sing of wonder with Bob's Red Mill grains, each bite snapping with a crunchy yet integrated foundation.

Almost as an afterthought, we ordered a salad. Yet this was no bystander.

The "Perfect Pear" ($7.75) provided what was promised; perfectly ripe pears joined Gorgonzola, mixed greens and dressing thoughtfully placed on this side.

It was as though we'd climbed a pear tree and pulled them down ourselves. Very, very nice.

When people say, "You can't eat art," they've not been to zaw.

The Ballard Food Police visit all establishments anonymously and pay for all food and drink in full. Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.